Lairig Ghru

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The Lairig Ghru is the best known hill-pass in Scotland. It climbs to an altitude of 835 metres and crosses through the central Cairngorms, one of the wildest areas in the country, and is a true classic walk. It is described from Speyside to Deeside.

Terrain

Clear paths for most of the distance, though these are lost amongst the stones on the very rough highest section. The Lairig is however a long walk through very remote and exposed terrain where help is a long way off and is often snow-bound in winter. This is a serious walk and hence is given Grade 4.

Public Transport

Bus to Coylumbridge. Return journey possible by bus in summer but takes all day.

Start

Coylumbridge. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

There are several possible start points for the Lairig Ghru on Speyside. The most popular these days is to start from the Sugar Bowl car park and to walk through the Chalamain Gap - an awkward boulder field - to gain the pass, but this omits the approach through Rothiemurchus Forest that helps to make the Lairig such a classic. Other possible starts include Whitewell (described as the start of our Braeriach route) or Loch an Eilein, but the classic start is from Coylumbridge. Park at the side of the road and take the lane next to the entrance to the Rothiemurchus Camp and Caravan Park at Coylumbridge and follow it past a derelict cottage to an old parking area. From here go through the gate and follow the lane through the first section of Rothiemurchus forest. These special woods are home to the rare capercaillie, and dogs should be kept on a short lead during the very sensitive breeding season between 1 April and 15 August. When you reach a fork take the left hand path, signed for the Lairig Ghru, which starts close to the river and heads through some beautiful mature pinewoods. The track crosses a small bridge, continue ahead crossing a stile next to a gate. The route narrows after a gate in a stone wall. Cross another small bridge and a gate and the path narrows again. Soon you reach the edge of the dense forestry and can see the Cairngorm mountains ahead, with the great cleft of the Lairig Ghru straight ahead, flanked by screes.

Stage 2

Continue straight ahead at a junction and after a short while you reach the Iron Bridge, also known as the Cairngorm Club Bridge after the climbers' club who built it in 1912. After just over a kilometre a cross-roads of paths is reached; this spot is known as Piccadilly. Leave the main path and turn right - signed for the Lairig Ghru. The route continues amongst the pinewoods, gradually gaining height. The trees gradually thin as the path climbs up through a natural treeline - one of the magical experiences of the Cairngorms - with many young trees regenerating.

Stage 3

The path continues across an open area with great views into the great gauge of the pass ahead. Eventually the route comes alongside the Allt Druidh once more. The path from the Chalamain Gap comes down from the slope on the left; stay on the constructed path as it eventually crosses the stream and continues the ascent. Ignore a path off to the right - this is headed for Braeriach. The great broken cliffs of Lurcher's Crag wall the left side at first, and soon the walls of Sròn na Lairig on the right become just as impressive.

Stage 4

The route now climbs through the great trench of the pass itself, with mountain walls on either side. Though the pass reaches a height of 835m, the actual summit is hard to judge as the highest section has several stony moraines across it - remnants of the glacier that carved the route. The path disappears several times and the going is rough for a kilometre or so.

Stage 5

The great peak of Cairn Toul comes into view, seen across a couple of lochans that appear to be landlocked into the pass. These are the Pools of Dee - one of the two sources of the mighty river that flows to Aberdeen - the water from them passes out under the stones. Once past the stones beyond the larger pool the path improves once more - make sure you pick up the path on the left side of the burn (that on the right leads into An Garbh Coire). Further on, there are terrific views into Garbh Choire on the right, whilst on the left wide and forbidding slopes sweep up towards mighty Ben Macdui.

Stage 6

After almost four kilometres from the pools the Clach nan Taillear is reached. The name means the Stone of the Tailors and according to local legend it was behind this rock that a group of tailors died in a blizzard when crossing the Lairig as part of a wager. Follow the path for almost another kilometre, passing (and ignoring) the start of a branch path that crosses a bridge over the river Dee to reach lonely Corrour bothy. The bothy is maintained by volunteers from the Mountain Bothy Association; please help by carrying out any rubbish you find here, and always follow the bothy code when visiting. After this junction the path forks; take the left branch that climbs around the southern flanks of Càrn a'Mhaim

Stage 7

The path slowly curves round to the left and eventually begins to descend once more, with Glen Luibeg ahead. When the Luibeg Burn is reached it is sometimes possible to ford it; more usually, a short detour to the left leads to a footbridge. Once across follow the good path downstream, passing through some fine stands of Scots Pine once more before reaching and crossing the River Derry footbridge to arrive at the derelict Derry Lodge. From here follow the vehicle track southeast down Glen Lui.

Stage 8

Keep following the clear track until Black Bridge is reached on the right. Cross this and follow the track south on the other side. After a couple more kilometres look out for a good path off to the right. Turn along this, which crosses a wet area using duckboards and finally arrives at the Linn of Dee car park.

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