Cairn Toul - Braeriach traverse

Summary

The magnificent walk from Cairn Toul to Braeriach follows the edge of a vast plateau around the Cairngorms' most spectacular corries. It is also exceptionally remote and arduous; many will break the route with an overnight stay at Corrour bothy. This can be approached either from the Linn of Dee to the south leaving a very long return, or via the Chalamain Gap from the Sugar Bowl car park on Speyside - the latter route making the traverse possible in a single epic day for the extremely fit.

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Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Rough paths to Corrour bothy (extremely rough boulder field in the Chalamain Gap) followed by a steep ascent to the plateau. The terrain on the traverse is mostly straightforward rocky tundra, though there are boulderfields on Cairn Toul. However there are huge cliffs close to much of the route, it is extremely exposed to bad weather and careful navigation is essential in poor visibility. For this reason, together with its great length and the lack of escape routes, this walk has been given a grade of 5.

Deer Stalking information

North of Braeriach and west of Lairig Ghru: Rothiemurchus. Stalking between late Sept and 20 Oct. Access to Braeriach is always OK via the main track up Gleann Einich to the loch, the Coire Dhondail path and Einich Cairn, or from the Lairig Ghru via Sron na Lairige. No stalking on Sundays. If further information is needed, please phone 01479 812345 (9.30am-5.30pm), 07887 648675 or, preferably, e-mail [email protected] ahead of visit.
South and east of ridge including southern approach via Lairig Ghru: National Trust for Scotland. No stalking issues.

Getting there

Start

Sugar Bowl car park (charge).

Public Transport

Bus from Aviemore to Cairngorm ski-centre - ask to get off at the Sugar Bowl car park.

Start Grid Ref

NH984073

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 36km / 22.25 miles
Time: 13 hours or 2 Days
Ascent: 1820m (Profile)

Summits Climbed

Munro: The Devil's Point
Munro: Cairn Toul
Munro: Sgòr an Lochain Uaine
Munro: Braeriach

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Walk Description

User reports (73)

Stage 1

The most convenient start point is the Sugar Bowl car park on the left at the foot of the zig-zags on the Cairngorm ski road (long alternatives which avoid the Chalamain Gap include Whitewell and Loch Morlich). Cross the road and follow the path down to a footbridge over the Allt Mòr in a ravine. On the far side bear right uphill and then back left onto a paved path that keeps to the north of the stream for a couple of kilometres with good views before it dips to cross the now small stream once more. Beyond the path continues, climbing gradually towards the obvious little rocky pass ahead - the Chalamain Gap.

Stage 2

Before reaching this the path vanishes as the gap is floored by rough, awkward boulders. Progress through the gap is slow and care is needed - this is a potential leg-breaker. The terrain thankfully eases once more on the far side as the path slopes downhill to the south southwest towards the great cleft of the Lairig Ghru. Soon the path descends more steeply down to a burn, joining a path coming up from Rothiemurchus Forest. Turn left here and follow the path which soon crosses the burn at a rocky section.

Stage 3

Follow the path up the glen into the remarkable deep trench of the Lairig Ghru, filled with hummocky morraines left behind by the ice-age. This is Scotland's most famous hill pass, climbing to almost three thousand feet between two of the highest mountains in the land. The great broken cliffs of Lurcher's Crag wall the left side at first, and soon the walls of Sròn na Lairig on the right become just as impressive. At the top of the pass, if the weather is clear, the summits of Cairn Toul and the Devil's Point come into view for the first time. The path is lost as the route continues over several stony morains, passing the Pools of Dee - one of the two sources of the mighty river that flows to Aberdeen. Keep to the left side of the stream on the descent, crossing the foot of the slopes of mighty Ben Macdui, as the branch to the right heads into the great super-corrie of An Garbh Coire.

Stage 4

Continue following the path southwards, with terrific views into Garbh Choire on the right - the great rim of the cliffs far above is the route followed later in the walk. After almost four kilometres from the pools the Clach nan Taillear is reached. The name means the Stone of the Tailors and according to local legend it was behind this rock that a group of tailors died in a blizzard when crossing the Lairig as part of a wager. Follow the path for almost another kilometre before turning right onto a branch path that crosses a bridge over the river Dee to reach lonely Corrour bothy. Unless attempting to complete the walk in a single epic day, this open shelter - or a tent pitched at a good distance from it - is the most likely spot to spend the night. The bothy is maintained by volunteers from the Mountain Bothy Association; please help by carrying out any rubbish you find here, and always follow the bothy code when visiting.

Stage 5

From Corrour bothy, the great rocky boss of the Devil's Point looks formidable. To reach it, take the path that climbs up close by the Allt a 'Choire Odhair into the high corrie. The headwall is ascended by means of a zig-zag path - often blocked by hard snow well into the summer. The climb ends very suddenly as the route emerges onto the wide, spacious bealach beyond. The Devil's Point - so impressive from lower down the glen - is reached easily by a detour to the left from here, with less than a hundred metres of further ascent. Return to the bealach and begin the much longer climb up the wide, windswept slopes to the northwest, reaching the summit of Stob Coire an t-Saighdeir at the very edge of the steep corrie of the same name.

Stage 6

Continue around the rim of the corrie, descending gently before a final steeper climb up a boulderfield to the summit ridge of Cairn Toul. This bouldery summit is the fourth highest in Britain - and the most remote of the four, with an elegant outline from many directions. The views are superb, especially northwest over the great gulf of Coire an Lochain with its fine lochan to the mighty summit of Braeriach. The route turns west here and descends over boulders, this time with the cliffs of Coire an Lochain falling vertically on the right.

Stage 7

After crossing a bealach the route climbs again, now on easier terrain, to reach Sgòr an Lochain Uaine - also known as the Angel's Peak. A twin to Cairn Toul, Sgòr an Lochain Uaine was promoted to become a separate Munro in 1997. Its northeast ridge is a fine scramble but our traverse continues along the headwalls of the cliffs, descending to another bealach - with great views looking back - before climbing to Càrn na Criche above the great buttresses of Garbh Choire Mòr .

Stage 8

At this point the route flattens off into a truly vast plateau. Head east northeast, keeping away from the crags, to reach the second branch of the infant river Dee. Amazingly, at an altitude of 1200 metres, this is already a fast-flowing stream. Cross it and make a bee-line across the featureless plateau towards Braeriach. The summit of this mountain - the highest on the route - is on the very edge of the great gulf of Coire Bhrochain - with perhaps the finest crags on the walk plunging away at one's feet. For this reason it can be very dangerous to navigate towards the cairn in winter conditions in poor visibility - in which case a good distance should be kept from the plateau edge. The views are superb, both over the great forests of Speyside and back across all the corries of the Garbh Choire complex to Cairn Toul, and across the Lairig to Ben Macdui.

Stage 9

Continue along the corrie edge before bearing left and descending to a bealach and then up onto the Sròn na Lairig ridge. Follow the path that descends northwards along this ridge, eventually passing close to the edge of the steep crags that plunge back down to the Lairig Ghru and across to Lurcher's Crag opposite. Continue on the path to the north until it descends to rejoin the Lairig path once the terrain becomes easier. Cross the stream once more and then follow the outward path when it branches right, climbing once more towards the Chalamain Gap. Pass through the gap - a sore trial on the boulders at the end of an epic route - and retrace your steps back to the Sugar Bowl car park.

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