A' Chuil to Barrisdale Bay

Summary

This very long and challenging stage crosses the appropriately named 'Rough Bounds of Knoydart'; it's every bit as tough and strenuous as the name suggests. The paths are fainter (if they exist at all), usually very wet and the terrain unforgiving. Nonetheless, the scenery is beautiful and there are plenty of options for breaking up the journey if it's simply too much, including a night at the idyllically-located Sourlies bothy.

Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Extremely rough, boggy footpaths and pathless terrain.

Getting there

Start

Track above A' Chuil bothy.

Public Transport

No road access.

Start Grid Ref

NM942923

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Services

There is no road access to any point along this walk, including the start - at a mountain bothy - or the end - at Barrisdale Bay. There is a small estate bothy at Barrisdale Bay.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 25km / 15.5 miles
Time: 8 - 11 hours
Ascent: 878m (Profile)

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Walk Description

User reports (1)

Stage 1

Head up from the bothy to regain the forestry track, and turn right to continue along it. Continue on the track to leave the forest, sloping downhill and then rentering another section of forestry beyond. Eventually the good track ends at a bridge over the River Dessary. A much boggier, rougher ATV track now continues, initially alongside the River Dessary. The track then leaves the river and includes a couple of steep ascents before it exits the forest beside a stile.

Stage 2

After leaving the forest the path joins another coming in from the right. The path is initially clear and relatively dry. Ignore a path off right for Sgurr na Ciche. The path deteriorates over the bealach, becoming very soggy underfoot. It eventually passes the two lochans at Mam na Cloich 'airde. Around 500m or so further the River Finiskaig must be crossed - usually reasonably straightforward. Fruther down the river flows through a deep gorge - keep to the path that stays above this and don't be tempted into the gorge itself.

Stage 3

A great view opens up as the route descends towards the bay at the head of Loch Nevis. Cross a wooden footbridge and follow a path down to the tiny bothy at Sourlies. This basic shelter maintained by volunteers from the Mountain Bothy Association; please help by carrying out any rubbish you find here, and always follow the bothy code when visiting. It occupies a privileged position at the head of the 20km-long loch but is quite small and can quickly fill up; there is plenty of grassy space for camping outside.

Stage 4

If not staying the night here, the route continues west. At lowest tide it is easiest to walk along the shoreline, but if the tide is high it becomes necessary to climb over the rough headland above the crags. After rounding Strone Sourlies the route turns towards the north, crossing marshland. It is best to keep near the shore at first, and later keep near the river, to reach the substantial footbridge at Carnach (Carnoch on some maps). This was rebuilt in 2019 after the previous bridge was washed out. There are great views of the sharp peak of Sgurr na Ciche.

Stage 5

Once across turn right along the initially well constructed track on the northern bank of the river - noting the ruins of Carnoch to your left. After reaching Cnoc Allt na Seigle the path climbs very slightly before continuing by the river, and then slowly diverging from it. The going underfoot becomes boggier as the route passes below Ben Aden (Beinn an Aodainn).

Stage 6

The glen starts to narrow and the path returns to the riverside. There are some beautiful native trees on the next section - but the going becomes extremely rough. At one point the path leads through a gorge and has some slightly awkward (when wearing a pack) scrambly sections; it is possible to avoid this by climbing above the gorge. The path emerges at a lovely grassy dell where it meets briefly meets a section of stalker path. When there is a high crag on the right the path leaves the river to avoid the next gorge, climbing briefly by a tiny tributary on the left.

Stage 7

Above the gorge, head across some flatter ground before the path returns to the river once more. Continue beside it until just after the confluence with the Allt Coire an Lochain. Here leave the river and climb steep and rough but grassy ground on the left - there are traces of a path - gaining around 200m until you meet the clear stalkers' path that leads from Loch Quoich over to the Mam Unndalain - turn left along this.

Stage 8

Follow the path to continue the ascent to the bealach - this is wet in one or two spots but generally much easier going than the last few kilometres. There are stunning views looking back down the glen, as well as over Lochan nam Breac to part of Loch Quoich. Once at the top of the pass then path continues to descend fairly gently into the upper reaches of Gleann Unndalalain.

Stage 9

The path switches to the north side of the glen to continue the descent, eventually reaching some beautiful native woodland and finally views down to Loch Hourn. It becomes a track before reaching a bridge over the river. Cross and turn right on the far side, following the main track past a hydro building, a ruin and a white cottage. After crossing the river again the track reaches the estate bothy and campsite at Barrisdale - for which there is a small charge. There are toilets and drinking water but no showers or other facilities here.

Next stage: Barrisdale Bay to Morvich

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