Creag Meagaidh is a magnificent massif, a bare plateau fringed by some of the grandest cliffs in Scotland. This traverse also takes in two further neighbouring Munros and makes for a memorable day.
Rugged mountain walk. The summit plateau of Creag Meagaidh can be difficult to navigate in poor visibility - precipices nearby!
None to start.
Aberarder, car park (charge) off A86 between Laggan and Spean Bridge.
There is a good-sized car park at Aberarder on the north side of the A86, opposite Loch Laggan. Fork left off the track onto the excellent footpath and then ignore two other paths leading off to the left. The footpath crosses a track before reaching the whitewashed former farm which is now part of the National Nature Reserve, run by NatureScot; there are sheltered picnic tables here and a toilet. Continue on the path which soon becomes pitched as it climbs through the fine regenerating birchwoods. At a clear junction, ignore the red pine marten signpost and take the right hand branch which climbs gently.
After around 1.5km from the car park, a stone-pitched path heads off amongst the birch trees on the right. This well constructed path climbs up through the woods. Continue up the rough hillside to just west of Na Cnapanan, with great views back over Loch Laggan.
From here continue northwest - a branch path leads off, making for a long grind up the broad hillside, which becomes stonier near the summit. There are excellent views across to the great crags of Creag Meagaidh behind Coire Àrdair, relieving the monotony of the slope. The angle eases eventually onto a broad ridge, and the summit of Càrn Liath is marked by a large cairn. This is the first Munro of the day at a height of 1006 metres. Head west down the open slopes and over the insignificant swelling of Meall an t-Snaim.
From here the slopes begin to narrow to form a ridge, and old iron rusty fence posts point the way towards the peculiar trench-like bealach of Uinneas Min Choire. There is a short, steep little ascent from here to reach Sròn Coire a'Chriochairein. From here the ridge becomes much better defined, with steep drops to the left and stunning views.
Curve round the edge of the corrie and then continue west along the flat summit ridge to reach the summit cairn of Stob Poite a'Choire Àrdair beyond. This is the second Munro at 1053 metres. Descend south southwest to reach 'The Window', the bealach between the ridge just traversed and Creag Meagaidh itself. 'The Window' is set well back from Coire Àrdair and there is no view down to the lochan. Follow the path which climbs up the far side. If joining the route at this point following an ascent from the lochan, be sure to head to the west end of the Window, as a faint path heading up Creag Meagaidh from the east end is uncomfortably steep.
The slope soon eases into the vast plateau of Creag Meagaidh. Cross this to a giant, very old looking cairn on the northern fringe of the tablelands beyond - Mad Meg's cairn. This isn't the summit of the mountain though; for this, continue westwards where the plateau soon narrows to form a ridge. A short ascent along this ridge brings the cairn of Creag Meagaidh into view. This is the highest mountain in the area at 1130 metres, and the views are very extensive on a clear day. From here, return across the plateau and back down to 'The Window'.
Descend the steep slopes leading east from the Window; the path is steep, stony and eroded and keeps to the left on the way down at first, before switching to the right on the second steep section. Further down it becomes grassier.
The scenery becomes ever more impressive as height is lost until Lochan Coire Àrdair is reached. This tiny sheet of water is utterly overpowered by the great bulk of Creag Meagaidh's cliffs high above. This is regarded as one of the best ice-climbing arenas in Scotland. From the lochan there is a clear path down the north bank of the Allt Coire Àrdair. The path is a little boggy at first but improves further down where it keeps further from the river. The lower part of the glen is clothed with a wonderful remnant of the ancient forest, and further still are the regenerating areas helped by the National Nature Reserve. Continue down the path right back to the start.
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