This long walk follows an excellent track right through the wild and bleak heart of Rum to reach beautiful Harris and its mausoleum on the west coast. There are excellent views of the Cuillin along the way, but the long distance means this walk would perhaps be better enjoyed on a mountain bike.
Excellent tracks throughout; a mountain bike would be very useful.
Ferry to Rum.
Kinloch ferry jetty, Isle of Rum.
Beginning from the Calmac ferry pier, follow the landrover track which curves round the coastline of Loch Scresort. It passes the primary school and later forks; take the right hand branch. This leads down through trees to rejoin the coast at the old pier; keep left here, passing the campsite and island hostel. At the next junction keep ahead on the track signed for the castle. This soon passes the front of the massively impressive Kinloch Castle - built in sandstone shipped in from Arran and appearing utterly out of place on such a remote island. Rum was once the private domain of the Bullough family who bought the island in 1879 as a private shooting estate. The castle was built as their holiday home in 1897; tours are available at specified times.
Shortly after the castle a crosstracks is reached. The island cafe and shop can be visited straight ahead; otherwise, turn left onto a track which soon climbs slowly; there are a few stony sections but it is suitable for a mountain bike throughout (and improves later). The route has the Kinloch River on your right, and eventually climbs clear of the woods, continuing for around 3km until it forks. Take the left branch.
Continue uphill, crossing a concrete bridge NM 363 994 and then a second - Malcolm's Bridge - at NM 363 994. After this the track climbs gently to reach its highest section at the barren heart of Mull. There are stunning views of the Rum Cuillin seen over Loch an Dornabac and its neighbours.
Eventually the track begins to descend gently down Hugh's Brae, rounds a bend and then descends more steeply towards Harris, a beautiful bay on the west coast now in view ahead.
The track passes an area where Rum ponies are often grazed. Continue along the track, crossing a bridge and then the whitewashed Harris Lodge. Beyond this the route ends at the spectacular mausoleum, built in the style of a Doric temple. This is the final resting place of the Bullough family, who built Kinloch Castle. Three giant slabs marking the graves of George Bullough, his wife Monica and his father John.
The landscape is spectacular, and if the tide is out it is well worth detouring down to the small sandy beach just to the east.
After visiting this, the route back retraces your steps to follow the main track all the way back across the island. Whilst the views are splendid, you may be footsore by the time you get back to Kinloch, and perhaps wishing you had the use of a mountain bike.
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