Treshnish Coast and the Whisky Cave

Summary

This superb circular walk takes in an interesting section of coastline on the Treshnish peninsula. It includes cliff scenery, a chance to see wildlife, evocative abandoned villages and the legendary whisky cave - where the finest moonshine on Mull was produced.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Good track at first, then rough coastal walking. The return path over the moor is very boggy in places.

Public Transport

Bus to Calgary from Tobermory (not Sat pm or Sun).

Start

Quarry at Ensay on B8073. Open in Google Maps.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 11km / 6.75 miles
Time: 3.5 - 4.5 hours
Ascent: 343m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NM361485

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Accommodation

Walk Description

User reports (2)

Stage 1

Please note that it is requested that dogs are kept on leads on this walk during the lambing and birdnesting seasons - take note of any local signs. There is parking in an old small quarry on the B8073 a short distance south of the track leading off signed for Treshnish and Haunn cottages. Begin the walk by heading along this track, which passes through scrubby woodland and below the old whitewashed schoolhouse. The track then crosses a cattle grid and has good views northwards to the Mornish peninsula before reaching the complex of cottages at Treshnish. Turn left on the track at the front of the white building to pass above Treshnish and through a gate.

Stage 2

The track passes through another gate and veers right beside a sheep fank and barn, continuing across the moor and passing another gate. Just before reaching the stone cottages at Haunn, look out for a signpost indicating a path which bypasses them to the right. It passes through two more gates before cutting leftwards down towards the coast across a steep slope; the rocky cliff over to the right is the site of an iron-age dun or fort.

Stage 3

Here the track ends, but the walk continues round the coastline to the left along the grassy raised beach, keeping close to the top of the cliffs that drop down into the sea. At one point the route descends a natural stony staircase near to the shingle and rocky bar of Rubh a'Chaoil, with good views out towards the Treshnish islands - the site of a large puffin colony. From here you can either remain below the cliffs, following a sheep track along their foot which mostly keeps above the shoreline boulders, or take an easier option by climbing back up to the left and continuing along the top of the cliffs on the grassy raised beach. The two routes join after around 600 metres when the cliffs relent briefly.

Stage 4

The faint path now cuts across a steep slope - looking like a prominent sheep-path - before again continuing more easily. It then swings left inland to round the top of an inlet. Another wide inlet is passed with a steep grassy peak above it; follow the path until a third inlet, where again it swings around it. This inlet is the route to the Whisky cave. To help identification, the inlet is narrow with steep sides with ivy growing on them, and is at NM348461; in clear weather the peak of the Dutchman's Cap, a distinctive island, can be seen directly over the leftmost of the Treshnish islands. To reach the cave, carefully descend the wet and slippery (but not too steep) grassy slope down to the pebble beach.

Stage 5

The cave, unseen at first, is immediately round to the right. A grassy mound across the entrance helped to conceal it from sea-borne excise men, for inside this long and roomy cave was once a large still, used for distilling illicit whisky. The stone foundations of the still are still clearly visible. After exploring return back up the gully to regain the path. Continuing, the path soon crosses a burn issuing from a steep ravine above. After another 300 metres bear left beside the scant remains of a drystone dyke; the cliffs above here relent and there is a trickling waterfall. The path - which is indistinct - climbs up to the left of the fall in a series of zigzags.

Stage 6

After levelling off the path leads on to cross a plank bridge to the haunting ruins of Crackaig, once a thriving village (where no doubt cheap whisky was readily available). Crackaig is said to have been a victim of typhoid rather than the clearances; the path leads away to the right and recrosses the stream to reach the remains of a second village, Glac Gugairidh. From here the path continues climbing gently across the moor, which is very boggy in places. The route is fairly indistinct but there is a marker post. Eventually a white house comes into view. Follow the marked path around to the right of this before joining the access track. Follow the track to the public road, turning left and following the tarmac for 1.6km back to the start.

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