This review is really a companion piece to my previous Trousers for Winter review, and much of the characteristics that make softshell an ideal material for winter trousers is relevant to jackets. Modern softshell jackets generally consist of a windproof, water-resistant outer and a fleece or brushed inner lining. There are endless combinations of fabric weights and construction, with the thinnest comparable in warmth to a 100 weight microfleece under a simple Pertex windshirt. This combination is nice and breathable compared to a waterproof hardshell jacket, but relies on the durable water repellent coating on the outer face to keep water out. Some manufacturers will sandwich a membrane of some kind between the layers, and this aids wind- and water-repellency at the expense of breathability. As my standard layering system consists of a modular combination of microfleece, windproof and hardshell layers I don’t often use a softshell jacket. As they are generally heavier and bulkier than individual layers I’d rather not have one taking up space in my pack, particularly when a light windproof shell over a baselayer would be more appropriate.
However – in sub-zero winter conditions where I’m expecting to wear a jacket all day this type of garment excels. By combining two layers into one I can carry a basic lightweight hardshell in my pack in case the weather changes and snow turns to rain and benefit from the freedom of movement offered by the stretch fabric, the increased durability of the face fabric compared to a light windshirt and perhaps a decent mountaineering hood. Moisture transmission is often better in this kind of jacket – the fabrics have been engineered to work together and shift sweat to the outer face swiftly which is particularly important in winter where moist clothing is less than ideal.
Just to make things more complicated, advances in fabric and membrane technology have resulted in fully-waterproof jackets that look and function very much like softshells. In this review I’ll be looking at a whole range of fabrics and garments that fall into the ever-expanding softshell jacket category.
Berghaus Cristallo JacketRRP £160
This is the kind of jacket most people envisage when ‘softshell’ is mentioned. The luxuriously soft outer face fabric is a total contrast to the stiff rustle of a mountaineering hardshell, and offers a good degree of stretch as well as looking really smart! The level of stretch is compromised by the addition of a Windstopper membrane within the fabric layers; whilst water-resistant Windstopper is far more breathable than Gore’s waterproof-breathable membranes, the improved windproofing does compromise breathability, as evidenced by the long pit-zips. It’s a tough decision – Windstopper garments generally keep the weather out for longer than simple woven softshells, but at the expense of weight, bulk and moisture transfer. Inside the jacket a grid-pattern fleece lining enhances the Cristallo’s winter mountaineering credentials and makes this a good replacement for a microfleece/windshirt combination, but at 786g I wouldn’t want to be lugging this around unused in a rucksack. The cut is long with effective one-handed hem cinching and a slight drop tail, but not as close and ‘athletic’ as I expected. The hood is low-profile helmet-compatible but easily reduces down to a sensible volume. I like the simple Velcro cuff adjusters over inner cuff thumbloops which seal any gaps but can be push out of the way. The Windstopper membrane makes this a good choice for foul-weather winter mountaineering, but for high-exertion activities I’d chose a non-membrane softshell.
Material: Gore Windstopper Softshell Weight: 786g (size L)
Edelrid McLaneRRP £130
It’s hard to classify the McLane – compared to the other jackets featured it’s pretty thin and closer to a winter baselayer than a jacket, but a fine weave outer fabric and good DWR coating make it suitable for use as outerwear. I found it useful when on the hill in the blustery autumn weather just over a baselayer – it’s too snug to fit much else underneath anyway. Designed for climbers the fit and stretch offer unrestricted movement with nothing riding up and exposing flesh to the elements. Edelrid’s Windproof 80 fabric is very breathable and shrugs off wind and drizzle very well, though I’d expect to put on a hardshell in much more than light rain. Very stretchy panels under the arms aid both breathability and articulation, though these areas are not at all windproof and can lead to a draught if scrambling or climbing with your arms raised. The bearded in particular will appreciate the offset front zip – double-ended for harness use – which puts the zip pull around on the cheek beneath a stiffened fabric flap. The hood has a stiffened peak and one-handed volume adjuster on the rear which keeps any flapping cords away from the face. The cuffs have no means of adjustment, but an inner stretch cuff keeps things snug and a simple thumb loop also helps keep things in order. It’s a bit pricey for a weather-resistant jumper, but I can see the appeal for climbers desiring a flexible garment that removes the need to constantly adjust layers mid-pitch.
Fabric: Edelrid Windproof 80 Weight: 580g (size L)
Fjällräven Älv JacketRRP £170
The Älv jacket from Swedish brand Fjällräven shows that outdoor garments can be stylish too – with some sharp tailoring and shrewd fabric choices this is a beautiful jacket that looks great for casual use as well as in the outdoors. Going against everything I’ve ever said, the G1000 fabric used across the shoulders and torso has a high cotton content combined with polyester and impregnated with a wax dressing. It’s not quite waterproof, but as the wax dressing can be applied at home like a big crayon and concentrated on specific areas, it comes pretty close. Whilst I’ve yet to experience anyone reapplying wax to their jacket over a bothy fireplace, it’s feasible and far easier than reproofing a hardshell. This waxed fabric is particularly durable, tolerating pack straps and abrasion and swelling when damp to actually become more weather resistant. For ease of movement the arms and back are made from a very stretchy material reminiscent of the modern tight-weave softshell found in other jackets, and this breathes very well whilst repelling wind and light rain. The fit is snug but seems to complement my less-than-athletic physique well, and the length is good with drop tail and hem adjusters. Two handwarmer pockets are obscured by a pack waistbelt, but the two chest pockets are more useful. I love the little leather zip pulls – a nice touch of quality. Combined with the brass press stud at the hem the Älv manages to combine traditional looks and styling into a very practical jacket, perfect for non-technical winter activities. I just wish it had a hood in addition to the high collar.
Material: G1000 Original and Weight: 665g (size L)
Mammut Plano HoodyRRP £170
It looks like a softshell, it feels like a softshell, but it’s made from a fabric which can withstand a claimed 10 000mm hydrostatic head, which is pretty much waterproof. The lack of taped seams prevents this from being called a waterproof jacket, but it’s not far off. This performance is achieved through the use of Mammut’s three-layer SOFtech fabric, which has a soft and stretchy outer fabric over a membrane and a brushed lining. It’s specifically designed as a midlayer and outer layer replacement garment, so this is definitely one to save for winter activities. Features are mountain-oriented, with a removable hood (I’ve never understood why anyone would remove a hood on a winter mountain jacket), two high handwarmer pockets and the ubiquitous chest pocket. It’s a close fit – typical of Mammut – and coupled with the stretch fabric articulation is particularly good. It’s a characteristically heavy jacket, further confirming the winter credentials as you’d not want this in your rucksack on a warm summer day.
Material: Mammut SOFtech Weight: 733g (size L)
Páramo Velez Adventure Light SmockRRP £200
Modern stretchy alpine softshell jackets are a relatively recent phenomenon, but Páramo have been peddling their range of ‘proper’ softshell garments for years. The difference is that Páramo’s softshells are effectively waterproof. Designed to replicate the performance of animal fur, the Nikwax Analogy Pump Liner actively moves both liquid and gaseous water away from the body and through to the outer layer. A key difference here is that this process works no matter the temperature or relative humidity – where waterproof-breathable membranes rely on a pressure differential and need a warm, moist microclimate inside the jacket before they function, Páramo works straight away. The downside is that this liner is quite bulky and warm, providing far more insulation than a hardshell. The Velez Adventure Light has a couple of vertical side zips that provide venting as well as access to an inner tunnel pocket. Despite this, if the temperature rises much above freezing I find the Velez too warm when working hard. The unusual kangaroo pocket swallows an OS map as well as gloves and a hat and is protected by a simple but effective storm flap. As Páramo’s multi-activity model the Velez Adventure Light has a good drop-tail which is great for cycling use, but the sleeves are a touch short on my size large when leaning forward onto handlebars. The fixed hood is cavernous, but reduces down well to offer great protection thanks to a wired peak and high collar. It’s clear that this is a jacket designed for UK conditions, and in foul weather the Velez Adventure Light is just superb.
Material: Nikwax Analogy Light Weight: 611g (size L)
Rab Vapour-Rise Lite Alpine JacketRRP £200
Rab have taken the basic softshell concept of a combined microfleece and windshirt and sewn the two together to create the Vapour-Rise range. OK, there’s a bit more to it than that, but the Vapour-Rise Lite combines a windproof and extremely breathable Pertex Equilibrium outer fabric with a thin brushed fleecy lining. This lining is particularly thin, so doesn’t lead to overheating as easily and makes the jacket usable into autumn where most softshell jackets are too warm. Conversely it’s not as weather resistant as the non-Lite version of the jacket, but for those that run hot this might be ideal. Rab give good hood and the Alpine model is no exception, with full mountain features like a wired brim, volume reducer and good captive side toggles and a small clip which keeps it rolled up and out of the way. The cut is fairly standard – not too snug or short – to accommodate the UK physique, and the arms not as long as some Rab garments. Two large chest pockets will accept OS maps as well as all manner of accoutrements, and all zips are reversed to offer a modicum of weather protection. It’s not a fully-fledged alpine softshell – but it’s also half the weight – so I found myself overlayering with a shell jacket fairly quickly. Light and extremely breathable, this is the closest softshell jacket I’ve found to my preferred microfleece and windproof system .
Material: Pertex Equilibrium and lightweight tricot lining Weight: 348g (size L)
The North Face Kishtwar JacketRRP £260
The Kishtwar jacket has a bit of a reputation – it’s the softshell that everyone wants (but no-one can afford) and though my job requires me to be incredibly cynical and expect everything to be rubbish I have to admit it does deserve the plaudits. As discussed before, when introducing a membrane into a softshell it will decrease breathability and potentially cause clamminess – the very characteristics of a hardshell that you’re trying to counteract through the use of softshell fabric. On the other hand, not having a membrane reduces the weatherproofing of the jacket, so windproof/breathable membranes like Gore’s Windstopper have been designed to find that elusive sweet spot. The Kishtwar uses Polartec Power Shield Pro – a more water-resistant version of ‘standard’ Power Shield, and whilst the ‘Pro’ tag has resulted in decreased breathability, it’s pretty good compared to the competition. With a claimed hydrostatic head of 5000mm (it’ll resist the pressure of a 5m tall cylinder of water) it coped with everything I put it though (including the infamous kitchen tap test) though remember that the seams aren’t taped and the zips aren’t waterproof. The cut is more relaxed than other alpine jackets, but being from the TNF Summit Series it’s snug enough to keep movement unrestricted. Two large handwarmer pockets are mesh lined to provide ventilation, though the chest pocket is so small I reckon it’s there for aesthetics rather than function. I need to make a special mention of the hood cord management – it all runs down into the jacket rather than flapping about in the wind, and instead of using plastic toggles for adjustment, teethed eyelets keep things far more streamlined. It’s simple, but really effective. Easily the best membrane-lined softshell I’ve ever worn, but the technology costs and this is an expensive choice.
Material: Polartec Shield Pro Weight: 518g (size L)