The title ‘Winter Waterproofs’ is a little misleading; perhaps ‘Mountain Waterproofs’ or ‘Hardcore Hardshells’ would be more appropriate? In this review, and the companion women’s winter waterproofs review from Helen, we seek to distinguish between the lightweight, ‘just in case’ waterproof jackets of summer and something more substantial that can cope with the worst Scottish mountain weather.
No waterproof-breathable (WPB) hardshell jacket is fully waterproof to the extent of a plastic bag or pane of glass – like a tent flysheet they will leak under enough water pressure (hence the hydrostatic head rating). However, in real-life situations a WPB jacket should manage to prevent the ingress of moisture for quite a while, or at least until the build-up of condensation on the inside reaches equilibrium! It’s about minimising discomfort – warm and damp is much better than cold and wet and this is why quick-drying, wicking inner layers are key. A three-layer WPB fabric – with outer face, membrane and internal scrim layer – is more comfortable than the two-layer constructions found in lightweight waterproofs, but it’s generally heavier. Aside from a WPB fabric I expect a proper mountain waterproof to have taped or welded seams – needle holes are a bad thing – and the fewer the better. A good adjustable hood is essential, with a peak to keep the rain out of your face and some provision for peripheral vision and head turning. Protected zips are good, and the main zip is ideally full length and fitted with a storm flap (if inside a drain at the bottom is a wise precaution). Pockets should be clear of rucksack belts and big enough to fit a pair of gloves and a map. In winter I don’t want to be constantly stopping to reach into my pack.
Regardless of fabric and design the replenishment of the durable water repellent (DWR) coating is important to keep water beading off – it’s the first line of defence against moisture and a good wash and reproof can work wonders on that leaky old waterproof.
Kathmandu Jardin RRP £270
While my modelling may not do it justice, the Jardin has a really striking and refined look, with a pleasing combination of form and function. As a general purpose hillwalking jacket the cut is long and relaxed with good articulation and unrestricted movement. The fabric is 3-layer Gore-Tex Performance Shell, a mid-range waterproof breathable hardshell that isn’t quite as breathable or rugged as Gore’s Pro Shell but is significantly cheaper. Thankfully it’s a 3-layer fabric though, so there isn’t any real clamminess apart from when working hard, and there are good long pit zips to aid ventilation. The two deep chest pockets are fitted with water-resistant zips with simple cord pulls, and they remain clear of rucksack straps. Internally there is a small zipped pocket with headphone socket. As a proper foul-weather jacket I’m pleased to see double storm flaps over the main zip, which has a glove-friendly zip pull. The hood has a stiffened – not wired – peak, and can be unzipped if desired. Coupled with the high collar and three-way adjustment it’s an effective design that moves with the head and cinches down nicely.
Protection: Gore-Tex Performance Shell Weight: 675g (size L)
Bergans of Norway Glittertind RRP £350
As I’m too lazy to shave I do like an offset zip, which directs the zip pull and backing fabric away from the chin and reduces yelping. The rest of the jacket is OK too – made from proprietary Dermizax EV, a 3-layer waterproof breathable fabric which is softer and less rustly than others with similar, unremarkable performance assisted by underarm zips and mesh-lined pockets. The cut is again long and protective, with a slim fit that nonetheless permits underlayering. Adjustment is limited to a hem drawcord with twin captive cordlocks that allow for one-handed gloved cinching. I like the four pockets – two chest and two slanted handwarmer which are just about usable with a rucksack on, which is handy as the two chest pockets are quite small. I was disappointed by the hood, which although adjustable is quite fiddly despite the use of supposedly idiot-proof tubular single-pice cordlocks. The brim is stiffened but tends to sit in front of my eyes, easily solved by folding it in half but compromising protection against wind-driven rain somewhat. It makes a nice gutter though.
Protection: Dermizax EV Weight: 443g (size L)
Rab Bergen RRP £220
The Bergen is the epitome of a UK general hillwalking jacket; it has a good long cut unlike many climbing-oriented shells, with a relaxed fit for layering but effective hem and waist adjustments to prevent flapping and remove dead air space. Made from highly-breathable eVent fabric this was the least clammy jacket used, but be aware that frequent washing and reproofing is required to keep the pores clear and maintain this performance. Two OS-compatible chest pockets are angled to make access easy, with water-resistant zips that are easy to operate and remain clear of a rucksack hipbelt. Whilst these pockets are not totally waterproof the internal mesh zipped pocket should be (though the contents will compromise breathability). The two-way main zip makes up for the long length, opening from the bottom if restricted by the hem when scrambling or doing something where greater mobility is required. This zip is protected by an external storm flap and backed by an internal ‘last resort’ flap. As is to be expected from Rab the hood is excellent with good visibility and cinches down well with a bendable wire brim. It’s heavy, but ticks all the right boxes and the price is particularly impressive.
Protection: eVent Weight: 573g (size L)
Berghaus Civetta RRP £260
Most outdoor clothing brands have a 400g Gore-Tex Pro Shell jacket in their range, but few are as keenly priced as the Berghaus Civetta. I assume that this price is achieved by stripping unnecessary features from the jacket – it’s a streamlined, no-fuss mountain hardshell, and it’s really rather good! A proper mountain hood compliments the high, protective collar with fleece beard guard, and thanks to a sensible wired peak and three-way adjustment it’s easy to pull off a tank commander impression without losing peripheral vision or staring into the inside of the hood when looking side to side. Underarm zips aid ventilation and the deep chest pockets easily swallow an OS map, sealed by long, free-running water-resistant zips. I’d prefer an external storm flap on the main zip, but an internal flap and water-resistant zip seem to cope. A little shorter than other jackets featured, but not excessively so, the fit is more ‘alpine’ than hillwalking, but it’s still possible to layer underneath. Although ideal for winter the weight and small pack size makes the Civetta a good year-round jacket.
Protection: Gore-Tex Pro Weight: 425g (size L)
Adidas Terrex IceFeather RRP £400
The familiar three stripes of Adidas are rarely seen on the hill these days (apart from D of E participants making use of their tracksuit trousers), but that is set to change with the introduction of several new items in the Terrex outdoor range. The IceFeather is a slim-fitting, athletic hardshell designed specifically for mountaineering and winter pursuits – it even has a removable snow skirt (50g). As I’d expect from such a form-fitting cut the articulation is excellent, with no hint of riding-up or restriction when flailing around (or even scrambling). The lower pockets are lined with mesh to aid ventilation, and are high enough to remain clear of hipbelts and harnesses. The chest pockets have small and fiddly zip pulls for some reason, and none of the pockets are large enough to easily accept an OS map. The hood is very nice, cinching down from a cavernous helmet-compatible size with concealed captive cordlocks. Whilst this is a neat and streamlined approach I can’t understand why the excess cord is left in loops on either side of the face – it would be simple to run the free end inside the jacket. A high-end, excellent quality jacket but it’s just a bit too expensive and specialised for most hillwalkers.
Protection: Gore-Tex Pro Weight: 528g (size L)
Outdoor Research Mentor RRP £370
The hem-length underarm zips show that Outdoor Research really get it – with a strong emphasis on snowsports and winter mountaineering OR realise that in cold weather sweating is particularly bad, and these huge zips offer great ventilation. In addition, they make accessing the two mesh internal pockets simple. I anticipated chafing when wearing a rucksack, but this didn’t prove to be a problem. Another Gore-Tex Pro model, the Mentor uses a combination of fabric weights – standard 40 denier in the torso and underarm but harder-wearing 70 denier at the hips and shoulders where rucksacks or harness straps are likely to abrade the fabric. The hood is helmet compatible – absolutely massive in fact – but the volume reducer works well and all three adjustments can be operated with one gloved hand. The cord ends are threaded back into the jacket which prevents interaction with eyes and teeth in the wind. The chest pocket is large but won’t accommodate an OS map, whereas the two handwarmer pockets are much more useful in that respect whilst remaining clear of rucksack straps. Arm articulation is good and the main zip has twin zip pulls for flexibility, but I’d prefer an external storm flap for proper bad weather.
Protection: Gore-Tex Pro Weight: 476g (size L)
Montane Super-Fly RRP £270
British company Montane have designed the Super-Fly for four-season use in British mountains. Being made from eVent it is particularly breathable – note the lack of underam zips – but does require a bit more maintenance than other fabrics. The big external storm flap supports the British pedigree but does contribute to the slightly higher comparative weight. As a hood obsessive I’m pleased with the wired brim, one-handed three-way adjustment and routing of the excess cord away from the face. There is ample space for a helmet too. All three external pockets will accommodate an OS map, including the double-zipped chest pocket which is also protected by a storm flap. There’s also an internal mesh pocket. The cut is long, protective and quite generous for Montane which makes layering easy, though I found the sleeves a little short. Double captive cordlocks at the hem and waist allow for a tailored fit and reduce heat loss. The price is pretty good too.
Protection: eVent Weight: 506g (size L)
Arc’teryx Theta AR RRP £400
This is the longest jacket in the Arc’teryx range, and in fact one of the longest in the review, extending well down my thighs. It’s also one of the lower priced Arc’teryx jackets, despite using Gore-Tex Pro. There is a definite minimalist feel, with very few seams, and those that are present are sealed with a very thin tape. The one-way main zip is a high-quality YKK WaterTight model which runs extremely smoothly and actually appears to be waterproof – handy as the internal storm flap is tiny. Deep underarm zips help with ventilation and run smoothly. The two external chest pockets are huge – stretching up to the shoulder and down to the waist where they house a waist drawcord in addition to the hem drawcord. Although located around my upper thigh the hem drawcord (somewhat surprisingly) doesn’t seem to be restrictive. The hood cinches down well with three effective one-handed adjustments – the brim is stiffened rather than wired but still seems to be effective in driving rain. It’s an expensive option but the quality does justify the high price tag on this occasion.
Protection: Gore-Tex Pro Weight: 523g (size L)
Mammut Albaron RRP £375
Look at the size of the pockets! The double zips mean that each pocket can function as a handwarmer or chest pocket, and easily swallow an OS map. There is a small zipped mesh pocket inside too. The Albaron uses Gore-Tex Pro, with a lighter weight used across the back, torso and top of the hood, and a more abrasion-resistant weight used at the bottom and shoulders to cope with rucksack and harness straps. The shoulders also have a grippy raised print for additional protection. The zips are water-resistant models which run freely, but I would have liked a more resistant design such as a storm flap. The cut is short and slim and I found it a little tight across the shoulders. Unusually for a climbing-oriented jacket I found the hem riding up when raising my arms above my head – something that tightening the hem drawcord doesn’t seem to address. The hood cinches in well and moves with the head, and the stiffened brim functions well despite the absence of wire. At the price I would have expected a better cut and arm articulation, but it’s possible that I’m just not Mammut-shaped!
Protection: Gore-Tex Pro Weight: 437g (size L)
Páramo Pasco RRP £220
The Pasco is not really Páramo’s best winter jacket – the Alta II wins that award in my opinion – but I thought it worth featuring as it’s such a departure from the boxy, unflattering designs of the past. It’s a short, close-fitting design that makes the most of the Nikwax Analogy pump liner by ensuring a maximum contact with a baselayer to physically ‘suck’ moisture away. This fabric is thicker (and heavier) than a membrane hardshell, so winter is really the only time that I’d wear it, but there are venting options in the form of long underarm zips which also give access to internal handwarmer pockets, as well as Velcro-sealed cuffs that can be pushed above the elbow to help cool down. A large chest pocket permits Napoleon impressions as well as an OS map, and is fitted with a reversed zip rather than a water-resistant design. Although short in an alpine style the drip skirt at the hem helps to deflect water that would otherwise run onto your trousers. I like the hood design, which has the usual three way adjustment plus a deep, wired brim. More a softshell than a hardshell it’s hard to classify the Pasco, but if you’ve been avoiding Páramo on aesthetic grounds this might be the jacket to change your mind.
Protection: Nikwax Analogy Weight: 713g (size L)