The Beaches of Scotland is a new guidebook by Dr Stacey McGowan Holloway, a guide to over 150 hand-picked beaches around Scotland’s coast, stretching from the mainland to the Outer Hebrides before sweeping north to Orkney and Shetland. Here Stacey explains why she loves to swim in the sea, and picks some personal favourites.
The Scottish coastline extends nearly 19,000 kilometres in length including some 900 islands, several of which were formed and shaped by volcanoes, and is scattered with beaches. I currently live on the coast, and being able to look out daily to the sea and the Isle of Mull gives me a perspective of how small my daily worries are and the shortness of our lives in comparison to the geological events that shaped this country. Being close to water brings a moment of calm when I fail keep those small worries in check.
Before relocating to Scotland, I swam in the ponds and lakes in London and around the M25 to find that calm and perspective. I swam head-up breaststroke in murky waters that tasted of the fish and ducks around me. I adored those swims, immersing myself in nature to try forget the city. On moving to Oban, I eagerly searched the coastline, trying to find which waters were safe to swim and a community to join. It did not take long to find other swimmers, they were all over this coast. I soon abandoned the heads-up breaststroke swimming style too as the water quality and clarity were excellent. I invested in a thicker swim hat and better goggles to spend more time underwater.
With a new job that took me to the Inner Hebrides I was exposed to the variety of beaches on offer in Argyll and Bute and was shocked at how tropical many looked. From 2019 onwards, my holidays and adventures have centred around Scotland’s beaches and they have been some of my most memorable trips. I walked the Hebridean Way, spent Christmas swimming on the Isle of Lewis, enjoyed a summer holiday beach weekend with family, toured the far northwest coast with my tent and spent a long weekend bikepacking on Mull to reach more remote and hidden beaches. I took to trying sea kayaking, stand up paddle boarding and finding other ways to explore, but it always came back to sea swimming. For me, this is how I enjoy the beaches in Scotland, in all seasons and most weathers.
However you wish to visit the beaches of Scotland, they offer a true escape from the every day. They are full of history, wildlife and adventure and offer something for everyone. For most people a beach holiday is incomplete without sea swimming and sunbathing. I cannot guarantee the weather will be suitable for the latter and you may require a wetsuit for the former, but here are my top 5 favourite Scottish beaches to holiday at, and hopefully you will brave the waters!
Note that you should only enter the water if you deem it is safe to do so. Weather and tidal conditions can change rapidly, and everyone has different abilities. If you are in any doubt, do not enter the water. Seawater temperatures in Scotland are cold all year round, resting between four and sixteen degrees and often below ten degrees. Cold water shock can lead to drowning, so it is not advised to dive or jump straight into the water. Many swimmers and those taking part in water sports in Scotland wear wetsuits all year round.
Big Sand (Sannda Mhòr), Wester Ross
A long, wide white-sand beach with breath-taking views of the mountains in Torridon to the east and Skye to the south-west, Big Sand is an absolute stunner of a beach with a shore side caravan and tent campsite. This is a great beach for stand-up paddle boarding, kayaking and wild swimming, with its shallow, clear waters, and even in the busier seasons the beach is long enough not to get crowded. For the intrepid winter swimmer, why not visit Big Sand for a winter swim overlooked by the snow-capped mountains.
Tralee Bay, Oban
Tralee Bay is a family friendly, sheltered, crescent-moon beach and a favourite among local people; you will find wild swimmers here all year round. The west end of the beach comprises of soft, golden sand with a playpark off the beach, whereas the east is pebbled. The beach slopes gently towards the ocean, with shallow, calm and clear waters, perfect for stand-up paddle boarding. In summer you can round your day off with fish and chips from the pop-up van (be sure to order in advance).
Dornoch Beach, Dornoch
Dornoch Beach is a popular beach well set up for visitors, families and holidaymakers. This beautiful, long beach is backed by dunes and stretches south from the rocks at Dornoch Point, where there is shelter on a windy day, to the mouth of the Dornoch Firth. Dornoch Beach has been given Seaside Award status as a clean bathing beach and has lifeboat station on site, so you may see the volunteer team out training.
Carradale Bay, Kintyre
Carradale Bay is a real gem of a beach on the east Kintyre coast. A long, wide stretch of golden sand with sheltered, shallow crystal-clear water makes a tranquil and peaceful location that is perfect for wild swimmers. On the east side of the beach is Carradale Point, with a 2,000-year-old fort at the small tidal island off at the far end.
Bosta (Traigh Bhostadh), Isle of Lewis
Bosta is a fabulous beach located on the island of Great Bernera just off the north- west of Lewis. This beach is brimming with local interest, both historical and current, including a tidal bell art instalment and an iron age settlement. This is also a wonderful swimming spot, backed by grassy dunes to shelter by when getting dressed afterwards. There are facilities on offer here and easy access mean this is a beach to make a point of visiting.