Flotta island explorer

Summary

From many viewpoints around the Scapa Flow, Flotta appears to be dominated by its great oil terminal, but there is actually plenty here for a visitor to explorer. Its strategic location at the main southern entrance to Scapa Flow has led to the island being dotted with the remains of defences from the world wars, and on a fine day the views from its coastline take in all the islands surrounding this great natural harbour.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Good tracks, tarmac roads, rougher grassy coastal paths

Getting there

Start

Flotta ferry jetty.

Public Transport

Ferry from Houton on Mainland (Orkney) or Lyness on Hoy.

Start Grid Ref

ND349950

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 15.24km / 9.5 miles
Time: 4 - 4.5 hours
Ascent: 244m (Profile)

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

Flotta is served by the vehicle ferry between Houton on Mainland Orkney and Lyness on Hoy; the times vary by season and day of the week but enable this walk to be done as a day trip to the island. The ferry arrives at the pier (which has public toilets and a tiny waiting room) to the west of the oil terminal where 10% of the UK's oil output comes ashore; most of the workers come from Mainland and are transported via their own launch and jetty within the complex. Begin the walk by turning right along the road, then right again when a junction is reached.

Stage 2

The large ruin to the left - backed by Flotta's surprising conifer plantation - is a reminder of a busier time in the island's past. This was once a naval cinema, part of what was a recreational complex for the British fleet which was based in Scapa Flow during the World Wars. There was once a dance hall, gym, squash courts and canteens as well; in the first World War 10,000 people watched a boxing match on the island. Continue the walk along the road to reach another pier; from here a narrower, rougher road continues above the coastline.

Stage 3

The road becomes a gravel track as it heads round the western side of Flotta. The landscape here can be quite bleak but there are good views across the sound, first to Fara and then to Hoy and South Walls where the Martello towers are visible. Watch out for some of Flotta's unique sculptures made by a local man from remains left here by the wars. To the left of the road is the island's airfield. Further on the track passes a seat and some old guns protecting the sound.

Stage 4

Eventually the complex of buildings at Innan Neb is reached; the large building down on the coast housed a twin 6-pounder gun emplacement, whilst on either side are 12-pounder gun emplacements together with searchlights and other buildings that formed part of the defences guarding the Switha Sound. The lighthouse seen across the water is Cantick Head on South Walls. When the road bends sharp left at the ruins at Balaclava, leave it to follow a grassy path to the right of a fenceline down to the sea.

Stage 5

At the sea the path turns left to run along the coastline, mostly outside the fenceline but occasionally crossing stiles into the field to avoid difficult sections. The path can be overgrown in summer but is mowed by locals. It rounds the low headland and eventually joins a road once more at Whitehouse. Turn right along this, then right again at a road junction. Soon the road leads to Flotta Kirk and war memorial. Turn right at the junctionn immediately after the church onto a track and then a path between a wall and a fence. When this reaches the coastline turn left along it.

Stage 6

The path runs through the grasses above the low cliffs, with the signal station on Stanger Head prominent ahead. Keep on the coast path until House Geo (directly below the signal tower) which forces you uphill; from here a path leads up to the signal tower which is just part of a substantial complex of old military buildings. Together with Hoxa Head on South Ronaldsay, Stanger Head guards the main southern entrance to Scapa Flow. Pass to the left of the signal tower but ignore the main track heading left, instead following a grassy track NE along the back of the buildings.

Stage 7

The grass track passes to the right of a lochan and meets a much larger track. You'll return to this point shortly, but first turn right along the track, passing through heavily quarried areas, and take a faint grassy track from the furthest of these. This passes between two geos onto Stanger Head itself; take care descending a short path at the end for a view of two fine sea stacks known as the Cletts, with old searchlights either side and the signal tower high above.

Stage 8

Return along the track, keeping north along it - it soon becomes a tarred road. As the road descends the hill you'll see Buchanan Battery off to the right - yet another reminder of the importance of Flotta during World War 2. There's a picnic table behind the battery. The walk continues along the road, eventually reaching a t-junction with Flotta's main road. Turn left along this. There are views to the oil terminal across the Pan Hope. Look out for a road off to the right - this detour leads to the island's tiny shop, just beyond which - over to the right - is the Flotta Heritage Centre - housed in a restored cottage. There's a perfect 1950s interior, whilst the barn alongside houses excellent displays on the history of the island.

Stage 9

Return to the main road, passing the school and community centre. Keep right on the main road at the junction; the road now heads towards the oil terminal. Just before the road swings left a track leads off uphill to visit the wind turbine on West Hill - Flotta's highest point. You can detour up this to reach the trig point a short distance beyond and to the right of the turbine - giving a 360 degree view of the island. Return to the main island road and continue along it to return to the ferry pier at the start.

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