This straightforward circular walk explores the environs of Pierowall, the largest settlement on Westray. Beginning from the medieval kirk, it gives views over to the harbour before visiting a fine beach and the imposing Noltland Castle which dates back to the sixteenth century.
Tarmac roads, grassy tracks, rough ground near beach.
Westray Bus Service to Pierowall.
Lady Kirk and cemetery, Pierowall.
The walk begins from the Lady Kirk, a reasonably intact ruin combining 17th century elements with the original 13th century church; there is parking by the cemetery if no funeral is taking place, or up the lane opposite. The church was in use until the late 19th century when Pierowall was a bustling fishing community. Most of the names on Orkney are Norse in origin and Pierowall is no exception, meaning 'small bay'.
Head east along the road. Looking over the right the old harbour and associated buildings at Gill Pier can be seen. This was once the main island ferry terminal before Rapness Pier enabled roll-on roll-off ferries, and the passenger ferry to Papa Westray still operates from Gill Pier. The local fishing industry is based in the harbour supporting a crab processing plant on the quayside. As the main road turns sharply right by Sand o'Gill beach towards the pier, leave it and instead turn left along Rackwick Road - ignoring the road heading north towards the airport.
Rackwick Road curves right at Rack Wick bay by a wide, grassy expanse of machair - turn left at this point and proceed roughly west along the main grassy track. When the track forks bear right to head towards the start of the white sandy beach of Grobust, voted the best beach on the island by locals. Pass through a gate to reach the area behind the beach.
Despite this popularity it is common to have the whole beach to yourself, and in winter the huge Atlantic waves can make for a powerful elemental experience. There is a rough track behind the beach, but most people head across the sands. Further on are a series of low drystone walls covered in lichen known as tangle dykes. Until recently kelp was harvested over the winter and left to dry on these low walls before being shipped away for processing. Excavations on the beach from 2007 uncovered the remains of bronze age houses, and a figurine now known as the Orkney Venus. Continue to the west end of the beach, then take a track to pass a small car park and continue along the track, heading south past Farrivald.
At the road junction turn left along the tarmac road to reach the impressive Noltland Castle. This heavily fortified castle was built by Gilbert Balfour of Fife after being gifted land by his brother-in-law Adam Bothwell, the Bishop of Orkney in 1560. The 7ft thick walls and 71 gunloops are testament to Balfour's political plotting and to the many enemies he made along the way. His machinations eventually led to his flight to Sweden, but soon he was embroiled in a plot to kill the king there, for which he was executed. As a result the unfinished castle changed hands several times with each owner altering and adding to the Z-plan layout, including a spectacular staircase built into the south-west tower leading up into the Great Hall. Continue along the road, turning right at a T-junction then left to reach the outskirts of Pierowall, and head along a paved footpath to return to the shore road and Lady Kirk.
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