A popular circular walk from Stromness along an easy coastal path to Warbeth Beach returning via Citadel Viewpoint which overlooks Hoy and the western entrance to Scapa Flow.
Good coastal paths, tracks and minor roads
Bus to Stromness from Kirkwall.
Stromness car park near the ferry terminal.
There is car parking just before the ferry terminal in Stromness. Begin the walk by heading along the road past the terminal, then bearing right to join Stromness' Main Street - variously named Victoria Street, Dundas Street and Alfred Street as is takes a narrow, winding course parallel to the waterfront. Stromness has great character, with many old and rambling buildings, and narrow alleys lead off left down to the water, or to the right steeply uphill. The narrow street is shared with brave drivers, and passes the Pier Arts centre and many small and interesting shops, plus a museum.
As the final houses are passed there are great views back over Stromness - which we reckon is amongst the most picturesque villages in Scotland. Follow the road by shore towards the Point of Ness Campsite - surely one of the most scenic in the UK - and pass through the site along the obvious track.
The easy walking provides ample opportunity to enjoy the spectacular views across the tempestuous Hoy Sound. The twin peaks of Cuilags and Ward Hill give the island of Hoy it's name (old Norse for 'High Island') and the small passenger ferry to Graemsay can be seen navigating the tricky waters. Follow the path as it bears right to head alongside the golf course and look for the light just offshore marking Skerry of Ness - this is a popular location to spot seals at low tide.
Pass a small gun emplacement on the left, an indication of the strategic importance of this area in the defence of Scapa Flow. This military presence is reinforced a short distance along the track where the gated entrance to Ness Battery is passed. This coastal defence battery was the headquarters of Orkney's Fixed Defences and also housed a Fire Command, controlling several other gun batteries around the harbour entrance. This impressive facility is open to the public via pre-booked guided tour, and visitors can view the accomplished murals adorning the Mess Hall depicting an English country scene.
Keep to the shore track, heading through a car park and on along the track to reach Warebeth Cemetery, housing the remains of a chapel - itself built upon what is believed to be a broch. Follow the wall along the shore (left) on the grassy path to reach a narrower path rising and falling until the car park at Warbeth (spelt Warebeth on OS maps) is reached. The beach here was once a popular location for gathering kelp stalks, which were dried on 'drying dykes' at the top of the beach before being processed to extract soda ash (sodium carbonate). Kelp is still a valuable source of alginates today - used for a variety of industrial processes as well as to thicken ice cream, jelly, salad dressings and toothpaste! Spend some time exploring the beach before retracing your steps and passing the cemetery.
Ignore the minor road leading to the cemetery car park and continue for another 500 metres to another car park. Turn left here and stroll along Nethertown Road - a quiet minor road that rises to offer great views back over Hoy Sound. Ignore any side roads leading off until Back Road is reached by a white coastguard building. Cross carefully and turn right along the pavement. Follow the pavement downhill until Citadel Road can be seen on the right cutting through a relatively modern housing development and signposted 'Gun Viewpoint'.
Follow the road through the houses and bear left where directed to ascend to the viewpoint. This was the location of a WWII anti-aircraft emplacement and now offers panoramic views over the golf course and Ness Battery in the foreground to Graemsay and Hoy across the Sound. There is also a bench which offers an ideal opportunity for a break to enjoy the views. Retrace your steps to Back Road and turn right, then take the next left to head steeply down to the main street. Turn left to retrace your steps along this to the start.
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