Hebridean Way Stage 2: Eriskay to Daliburgh

Summary

The walk begins across Eriskay's wonderful beach before continuing over a causeway to reach the next island - South Uist. After a stretch of roadwalking the route joins the Machair Way - a low level route that heads up the west side of the island. It's almost level walking across mostly grassy terrain, with sandy beaches and dunes never too far away.

Grade

Bog Factor

3.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Beach, then some roadwalking. Grassy tracks and paths on the machair.

Getting there

Start

Eriskay ferry terminal.

Public Transport

Bus / ferry to Eriskay; buses run through Daliburgh along main road (1.6km off route).

Start Grid Ref

NF784101

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Services

Eriskay ferry terminal has toilets and coin operated shower and the island has a pub and shop, There's a cafe and campsite at Kilbride on the first road stretch on South Uist, as well as the inn at Pollachar. There are no facilites right at the stage end - reaching Daliburgh / Dalabrog is just over a kilometre detour along a minor road. Daliburgh has a hotel, B&B accommodation and a good shop.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 17km / 10.5 miles
Time: 4 - 5 hours
Ascent: 90m (Profile)

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

Having arrived on Eriskay, the next section of the Hebridean Way begins from the ferry terminal. Walk up the road for a short distance until a signpost indicates where to turn left and follow a path down to a stunning beach. This is where Bonnie Prince Charlie first set foot on Scottish soil, and it is known as Coilleag a'Phrionnsa, Gaelic for the Prince's cockleshell strand. Walk across the sands and at the far end follow the markers up the grassy cliff and round the headland, keeping left of the fence. As well as the Bonnie Prince Charlie landing, there was another event here which has passed into legend. The grounding of the SS Politician off the shore in 1941 left its cargo of 264,000 whisky bottles to the mercy of the locals. The novel by Compton Mackenzie and later Ealing comedy film, Whisky Galore, immortalised and glamorised the tale of the liberation of over 2000 cases of whisky by local crofters.

Stage 2

Cross the back of the next beach to join the road and continue ahead to pass a graveyard and then the Am Politician Bar named after the ill-fated boat. The bar contains some remaining bottles from the ship and is the only pub on the island, set in the middle of the scattered main settlement of Am Baile. Pass the pub and climb the steep road ahead and turn right at the bend at the top. At the next junction keep ahead (shop if you detour right), then take the next left to follow the wide road around and down to the causeway that links Eriskay to South Uist. On the far side, keep left at the road junction. The Way now continues along the road for another 4km, passing a cafe and campsite at Kilbride, until a cross-roads is reached.

Stage 3

Here turn left and follow the road down towards the Pollachar Inn which stands by the coastline. Just before reaching the inn, turn right at a Hebridean Way signpost. The route follows a grassy coastal track, joins the tarmac road for a short distance and then continues past a house onto a sandy track. Stay on this track as it crosses fertile machair croftland and passes some picnic tables. The route heads inland slightly to cross the Abhainn Mhor, after this continue straight ahead rather than staying close to the shore.

Stage 4

Pass a graveyard with good views to the small island of Orasaigh beyond and continue ahead as the track goes through a farm gate and eventually returns close to the shore. You may see crofters collecting seaweed which is then spread on the narrow fields as fertiliser. This is also a good area for birdwatching with ringed plovers, redshank, snipe, dunlin, oystercatchers, curlews and lapwings attracted by the coast and the flower-rich haymeadows.

Stage 5

Where the Way comes close to the shore take care to remain on the main track which now heads slightly inland again rather than continuing next to the sea. Continue following waymarkers through any gates, keeping straight ahead at a crossroads of tracks. Eventually bear left to reach the tarmac road with a mast up ahead. The Way now turns left but a detour along the road to the right leads 1.6km to Daliburgh (Dalabrog) where there is a supermarket and hotel. Next stage: Daliburgh to Howmore.

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