Heritage Trail: Tolsta to Lional

Summary

The Heritage Trail follows a traditional route linking the old summer shielings along a very remote but atmospheric stretch of the Lewis' coastline. Far from help or easy escape routes for much of the way and with no formal path, it is a challenging route across unforgiving terrain.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

Rating

Terrain

Minor road at either end, but most of the route has no formal path and is extremely rugged going, with a great deal of ascent and descent. There are waymarkers but given the remote location, navigation skills essential. With pre-planning, it is possible to make the return by bus.

Public Transport

Bus links North Tolsta from Stornoway for the start; bus from Lional links to Stornoway at the end.

Start

Tolsta North bus stop. Open in Google Maps.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 21.5km / 13.25 miles
Time: 6 - 7 hours
Ascent: 471m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NB512486

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Accommodation

Walk Description

User reports (4)

Stage 1

If starting from the bus stop at the north end of Tolsta continue north along the road leaving the houses behind and staying on the road at the entrance to the car park (toilets here) on the right. Follow the road around the headland, it is worth crossing the stile to get a view of some sea stacks including the impressive Caisteal a' Mhorair overlooking the stunning sands of Garry Beach. Return to the road and continue past a lochan and the parking for the beach.

Stage 2

Soon the Garry Bridge is reached. Built by Lord Leverhulme as part of an ambitious plan to make a road from Stornoway to Ness, the project was abandoned in 1921 when Lord Leverhulme sold Lewis to concentrate his plans on Harris following opposition from locals, many of whom had returned from the first World War and wanted land to croft rather than possible jobs in Leverhulme industries. This led some to call the Garry Bridge 'the Bridge to Nowhere'.

Photo: Mairi Graham

Stage 3

Keep following the track as it follows the headland and then bends inland with views of a small waterfall in a box canyon opposite. When the track bends left to head inland, leave it at a marker post to cross a small concrete bridge. After the bridge, turn right - keeping to the north side of the burn but gaining height, eventually curving left to reach the coastline. The route vaguely follows an ancient route linking summer shielings but no sign of that now exists on the ground; instead keep a sharp eye out for marker posts which have been moved nearer the coast in recent years - more up and down, but with better going underfoot.

Photo: Mairi Graham

Stage 4

After crossing a small burn, soon there are views of Dùn Othail, a large fortress-like rock joined to the mainland at a deep chasm. The route continues, contouring the coastline above the cliffs.

Photo: Sandy Morrison

Stage 5

After a couple of kilometres the old shielings at Cùilatotar (labelled Quilatotar on maps) are reached. From here the route descends steeply to cross a burn at a confluence, then steeply again on the far side to Lower Dìobadal - the markers help find the best line, but the burn crossing could be tricky in spate conditions and the route is rough. Continue along the coast, passing the remains of the stone sheilings.

Photo: Colin Morrison

Stage 6

The route now heads around Sròn an t-Seileir (Cellar Head), passing a landslipped area. There are a couple of natural arches at the foot of the cliffs far below. After 3km there is a burn crossing, then the route passes above a beach before another larger burn, after which the route climbs to keep to the cliffs.

Photo courtesy of Galston Estate Trust

Stage 7

Eventually the substantial ruins of the house and chapel at Filiscleitir can be seen on the clifftop ahead. Cross the burn and follow it past the remains of buildings before following higher ground along the cliff to reach the remains of the chapel. The chapel was built in the 18th century by a local man, John Nicolson, who returned a wealthy man from America, and erected the chapel as well as nearby Edgemoor Hall, the ruins of which still remain. Services were held at this cliff top spot until the 1930's with trawler crews among the congregation.

Stage 8

From the chapel follow the cliff to the remains of the house where there are good views north to the Butt of Lewis. Continue until the burn - Gil Batisga, then follow this inland, to pick up the start of a boggy track.

Stage 9

Turn right onto this to head north west past current peat cuttings and reach a group of summer huts, caravans and an old bus. Continue on the main track passing more peat cuttings to reach the houses of Sgiogarstaigh. There is parking here and if transport has been arranged the walk can be finished here. Otherwise continue along the road, keep straight ahead at any junctions to reach the A857 at Lional where a bus can be caught back to Stornoway.

We'd like to thank Urras Oighreachd Ghabhsainn (Galson Estate Trust) for their help updating this route

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