Muckle Roe and the Hams

Many Shetlanders regard this circuit visiting the southern coast of Muckle Roe to be the finest in the archipelago. The section from the lighthouse to the Hams is rugged and rocky but the coastal scenery is superb. Muckle Roe is linked to mainland Shetland by a bridge. Please note that the walk crosses grazing land and has many ground-nesting birds; if taken, dogs should be kept on a lead.

Terrain

Hillpath to the lighthouse, then rugged and rocky pathless walking above the coastal cliffs, navigation skills needed. Good landrover track for the return.

Public Transport

None to start.

Start

Parking area near end of public road at Little Ayre. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

There is a grassy parking area on the left side of the public road down the east coast of Muckle Roe - just before it ends at Little-ayre. Begin the walk by continuing along the road, follow it as it curves up to the right at the end. Turn left through a gate onto a track signed for both the Lighthouse and the Hams. In a grassy field the track curves to the right at another wooden signpost - leave the track here, following the sign for the Lighthouse and crossing the grass to a pedestrian gate. Pass through this and follow the good path down to reach the beautiful beach at Muckle Ayre.

Stage 2

Ignore the path that climbs above the cliffs at the far end of the beach - the correct route to take is to the right, then joining an obvious path that cuts back left across the slope higher up. There is a brief boggy section over the peaty Burki Hill before the path becomes very clear again, cutting across a heathery slope high above the sea. Cross two stiles and keep on the path, which has a metal handrail for one section.

Stage 3

Eventually the path descends to shore of Gilsa Water, an attractive hill lochan, and then cuts left diagonally up the slope beyond. After reaching a high point it begins to descend; note the dramatic blowhole of the Hole of Hellier just off to the left - though take care as the sides are vertical. The path continues downhill towards the tiny lighthouse now visible ahead; pass around the back of a geo to approach it. A broken fence line then leads off towards the lighthouse, whilst the main path seems to keep right but then fades out.

Stage 4

It is worth detouring to the lighthouse to get the best views of the wild and rocky coastline that lies ahead - watch out for seals which can often be seen basking on the rocks below. There is no path on the next section and the going is rocky and rugged; sheep-paths may help in one of two places but make sure you keep safely back from the cliff edge.

Stage 5

You may need to gain and lose height in a few places to avoid low rocky crags. Eventually pass to the west side of the Loch of Rusness. A faint path may be picked up beyond this and the terrain becomes a little easier; keep above the cliffs round more geos. When a fence is reached keep to the right of this.

Stage 6

Further on cross a stile at a junction of fences, keeping above the clifftops. The cliff scenery is very fine, at one point there is a sea stack with two arches in its base.

Stage 7

Cross another stile and then continue to reach the ruined house at Burg - the first of the houses of the Hams. The name comes from Norse meaning harbour; South Ham was once much used for smuggling from the Faroes. From the house head down to the gate and the track at the bay. Pass through this but when the track leads inland leave it and instead continue along the southern shore of the South Ham.

Stage 8

Cross a stile over a fence and then - from the bay just beyond - follow a faint grassy track that heads up a shallow glen. This meets a landrover track at a t-junction - turn left here and follow the track. This leads through a gate and reaches the stunningly beautiful bay of North Ham, enclosed by dramatic cliffs.

Stage 9

Cross the pebbly ground to the north of Town Loch to pick up an old track that heads back along the eastern shores. Up the burn is an old Norse Mill, but our route continues along the faint track to reach some more abandoned houses. Here the track peters out; aim across grassy ground to reach the modern agricultural barn. From here a gravelled landrover track leads south, climbing up over the moors to cross the central part of Muckle Roe to return to the start - a real contrast to the rest of the walk.

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