Papa Stour: the coastal circuit

Summary

Explore this special island on this long coastal circuit taking in the best beaches and an array of sea stacks, high cliffs, and natural arches as well as visiting Papa Stour's highest point. The island is served by only an infrequent ferry service and the complete walk is only possible as a day trip from Shetland Mainland on a number of days each week.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

Rating

Terrain

Pathless and remote coastal clifftop walking, one fence has no stile.

Public Transport

Ferry to Papa Stour from West Burrafirth on Shetland Mainland; requires booking and it is possible to make the return trip only on certain days of the week.

Start

Papa Stour ferry pier. Open in Google Maps.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 17km / 10.5 miles
Time: 5.5 - 6.5 hours
Ascent: 304m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: HU182608

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

The walk starts from the ferry pier, if arriving by plane follow the road from the airstrip to pick up the route at the Kirk. Otherwise follow the road uphill passing the green building which houses a cosy waiting room and toilets and ignore the turning to Hurdiback. Most of Papa Stour's 20+ residents live in the more sheltered area around Housa Voe where the ferry docks, there is evidence that humans lived here in neolithic times. Papa Stour was an important strategic Norse base and became part of the Norwegian royal farm with the Norwegians keeping control of the island until well into the 17th century. After passing a house at Da Biggins look out for the partially reconstructed medieval Norse house, or stofa, on the right hand side. Follow the road and at the bend just before the church take the track on the left. Detour down the grassy path to visit the Kirk which a stained glass window by artist Victor Noble Rainbird in memory of the 6 men from Papa Stour who lost their lives in WWI.

Stage 2

A short way down the track turn right through a walkers gate signed for the beach. Just before the fine sandy beach bear right to follow a path to a stile, once over this aim left to follow the coast. Go through another stile to follow the seaward side of the fence soon reaching another sandy beach. Keep following the coast as closely as possible aiming for stiles where there are fences.

Stage 3

The route passes an impressive collapsed sea cave with natural arch and then climbs to a high point southwest of the airstrip. Continue round the coast crossing the remains of the hill dyke which once divided the island when ownership was split between two lairds in the eighteenth century. After a deep inlet the Shepherd's Taing natural arch comes into view. At the back of Mo Geo it is possible to cut off the headland and aim north to reach the shore of Hamna Voe.

Stage 4

The landscape changes here to heather moorland, keep following the coastline, passing the ruins of boat shelters and kailyards built near the shore where kelp could be used to fertilise the sheltered ground inside the structures and used for growing hardy Shetland kale and other crops. As you round the end of the voe the remains of stone built grain mills can be seen on the small watercourse. Cross this and continue on the far side of the voe soon going through a gate and reaching a ruined house at the shore.

Stage 5

The cliff scenery soon returns with a series of skerries, stacks and natural arches, the most impressive probably being the jagged stack in Breigeo. It is necessary to head inland slightly to pass around the back of Kirstan Hol, a large collapsed sea cave with a smaller one further inland.

Stage 6

Follow the cliffs to descend to the shore just before Aesha Head, where stands Aesha Stack - with an impressive keyhole shape cut through it - and a dramatic arch cuts right through the headland.

Stage 7

Climb the coast on the far side of the arch, with stunning views looking back.

Stage 8

Soon you will pass the two islands of Fogla Skerry and Lyra Skerry with its tall and slender sea stack; both these islands were once part of Papa Stour and both are pierced by multiple sea passages running right through them. Further on there are views down to the dramatic sea stack of Snolda which also has a small sea arch at its base. After rounding the Horn head inland to pass behind Akers Geo and then aim directly uphill to reach the summit of Virdi Field the highest point on the island at 87m. There are extensive views of Shetland's westside and Muckle Roe, with Foula well seen out to sea if the weather is clear.

Stage 9

Check the time at this point, as it is possible to shorten the route back by starting along the faint path heading southwest. If time permits continue the route from the summit by heading NW, passing the remains of a wartime coastguard lookout and then a cairn before cutting north to return to the coast above where a long subterranean passage exists under the headland. Continue around the Geo of Bordie - from the headland beyond this there is a view back to the low entrance to the passage at the foot of the cliffs. Continue towards Sholma Wick, which has also has a sea arch on its far side. A fence runs down to the coast with no stile and must be stepped over. You can cut across the next headland to reach the low inlet of Culla Voe. Here stay on the seaward side of the fence. Continue round to the back of the Voe. From here take a rough track that climbs inland, keeping ahead at a junction. It eventually meets the outward route at the tarmac road; turn left along the road to return to the start. There is a small waiting room just before the final descent to the pier for the ferry.

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