Am Basteir

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Summary

Am Basteir ('The Executioner') is a spectacular peak at the back of Coire Basteir, in the centre of the famous view from Sligachan, accompanied by the jagged Basteir Tooth. The ascent of the ridge is an airy scramble with a notorious 'bad step' - but the whole walk is through stunning surroundings.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

The ascent of Am Basteir is an exposed scramble; the direct descent of the Bad Step is a Severe rock-climb, avoiding which requires difficult route-finding on dangerous ground. The remainder of the walk is easier but still gives rugged going and steep scree slopes.

Public Transport

Buses from Portree, Broadford and Kyleakin - get off at Sligachan Hotel.

Start

Lay-by at Sligachan on the Dunvegan road. Open in Google Maps.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 14km / 8.75 miles
Time: 6 - 7 hours
Ascent: 1175m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NG484296

Summits Climbed

Munro: Am Basteir

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Accommodation

Walk Description

User reports (12)

Stage 1

Take the Dunvegan road from Sligachan and park in the lay-by immediately on the right, taking care not to block the entrance to the Mountain Rescue post. The footpath begins on the opposite side of the road at the far end of the lay-by It soon leads to a footbridge high over the river; cross this and continue on the now excellent footpath uphill. After a couple of kilometres it comes alongside another attractive cascading stream (the Allt Dearg Beag) and gives improving views.

Stage 2

To the left of the great peaks there are views out across Glen Sligachan to the Red Cuillin and Marsco. Do not cross the next footbridge (which is the path to Sgùrr nan Gillean) but instead continue on the right side of the stream. Eventually the path swings round to the left and there is a magnificent view of the entrance to the Basteir Gorge, with the great Pinnacle Ridge of Sgùrr nan Gillean towering above.

Stage 3

The route ascends the steep slopes to the right of the gorge. The going is easiest at first along the left edge of the scree slope. Higher up the route zig-zags up the rocky slopes, following little ramps to the left and right, with short, easy sections of scrambling. The route can be quite hard to follow as the path is not visible on the rocky sections.

Stage 4

The ground levels out and the route continues traversing the rocky ground before eventually reaching the river again. Continue up over the lip into the grassy bowl of Coire Basteir. This is a spectacular and forbidding spot, with the great rock walls of Sgùrr nan Gillean to the left and Am Basteir and its famous tooth ahead; the scene is softened only by the reedy lochan at the bottom of the coire.

Stage 5

The direct route out of the back of the coire is barred by crags; the correct way is on a clear scree path with starts over the left side of the coire, near the foot of the great gully coming down from between the two highest peaks of Sgùrr nan Gillean. Once found, the path heads clearly across and up the scree to reach the foot of the cliffs of Am Basteir at their lowest point. From here, continue up the steepening scree slopes to the left. It is best to keep right of an outcrop higher up, before slanting left to reach the pass between Sgùrr nan Gillean and Am Basteir - the Bealach Basteir (photo shows the approach to Sgùrr nan Gillean - a rock climbing route from the bealach).

Stage 6

The direct ascent of the ridge is a somewhat airy scramble with one very significant difficulty - a vertical drop known as the Bad Step whose descent is graded as a Severe rock-climb (requiring climbing skills and equipment). This can be avoided on ledges on the south side - but this requires difficult route finding over loose, dangerous terrain - you need to leave the ridge before reaching the step. One option is to leave the ridge a short distance above the bealach - just before it steepens. Traverse across to an orangey slab seen ahead. Ascend this slab (slippery when wet and with some exposure, keep off any small stones on the slab) and then continue traversing leftwards until, after crossing a wall, head right up ramp of purplish rock. This returns you to the ridge just beyond the Bad Step. From this point the ridge leads more easily to the summit. This is a spectacular place.

Stage 7

Looking back, Sgùrr nan Gillean looks impressive. Return to Bealach a' Basteir - either by ascending the Bad Step or using the bypass (which is slightly easier to find in this direction) and then continue back down the scree to below the lowest point in the cliffs, reached earlier.

Stage 8

The quickest return to Sligachan is by the route of ascent, but it is more interesting and easier (though longer) to make a different return. From the lowest point in the cliffs, continue to keep the cliffs on your left by ascending the scree ahead (there is a path). This leads up below the spectacular Basteir Tooth to reach the Bealach na Lice. From the Bealach na Lice, it is worth detouring to the right along the narrow rock ridge to the summit of Sgùrr a Basteir, which has fantastic views of Am Basteir and Sgùrr nan Gillean.

Stage 9

On returning to the Bealach na Lice, you can extend the walk by taking in Bruach na Frithe or you can descend down the path into Fionn Coire. Follow the clear path down until it disappears on a lower, grassy level of the coire. At this point head left following occasional cairns until the path is picked up again by a large cairn where it crosses a stream. Follow the path down until it reaches the main path up to the Am Mam pass. Follow this path down the left bank of the stream to Sligachan.

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