Ben Tianavaig makes for one of Scotland's finest short hillwalks, with a beautiful coastal position, a dramatic escarpment and simply sensational views.
Unmarked hill paths throughout; one short section can be wet but otherwise the going is excellent. Unprotected cliff edges for much of the walk.
None to start. Bus from Portree to Braes: get off at the Camastianavaig road end, 1km from start.
Parking beside the bay at Camastianavaig.
There is parking by the picnic tables in front of the stony beach at Camastianavaig. This is a beautiful, sheltered and peaceful settlement. The walk begins fifty yards along the road, near the red post box. Turn right here and head up the path on the left of the driveway just before the gate. It has a wooden sign reading 'Hill path' but this can be hard to spot from the road. The path heads uphill by the rowan trees, keeping between two fences.
When the fences end take the path that bears right, sloping up the hill. When it levels off it forks. Both ways lead up the hill; for the ascent, use the right hand branch which continues along the edge of the steep drop. There are stunning views back over Camastianavaig. The way is clear with excellent sheep-tracks continuing along the cliff edge; care is needed above a big drop to the sea on one section.
After rounding a corner, the next section of the walk is a complete delight; either keep right to the edge of the escarpment with dramatic views to the sea below, or take a slightly easier route parallel just to the left. Further along, there are a couple of rocky steps are easily avoided; the views back towards the Red Hills and the Cuillin improve with every step, whilst almost the whole of Raasay can be seen across the narrows.
Continue up the cliff edge, with the trig point on the summit soon coming into view. Down the steep slope to the right is an assortment of small pinnacles - like a miniature version of the Sanctuary below the Storr.
Eventually the delightful summit and its cylindrical trig point are reached. Although Ben Tianavaig is only 1355 feet high the views are out of this world. Portree harbour is revealed suddenly, together with the Storr and the Trotternish coast, whilst the view across to Raasay has a foreground of odd-shaped rocks and pinnacles.
Looking back, the views are perhaps even better, with the escarpment you've just climbed providing a perfect foreground to the sea, backed by the Red Hills and the Cuillin.
It is possible to make a more difficult return route (not included in the times given) by continuing along the escarpment from the summit for 400m until it is possible to descend to the right. From here a rough descent can be made down the grassy valley of the An Ceam Dubh beneath Ben Tianavaig's cliffs. Once opposite a prominent, flat green pasture right down by the sea, one can bear left and work your way down the very steep heather slopes to reach it. A narrow path then leads south along the coast; it soon ascends to keep above the shore. As the southern end of Ben Tianavaig is rounded, the slope becomes very steep but the path cuts across it and gives a practical route. Beyond this airy section, the shore is reached at Camastianavaig.
Our recommended descent, however, and much easier, is to simply retrace your steps by the route of ascent - or take the route that bypasses the cliff edge just to the right. It's no hardship to tread the same ground when there is such a sensational view ahead the whole way.
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