Sandwood Bay to Cape Wrath

This final stage climbs initially to give wonderful views back over Sandwood Bay before tackling the rough ground to head north through the Cape Wrath MoD firing fange, turning away from the coast to pick up the road for the final jaunt to the dramatic end at the Cape Wrath lighthouse where it is often possible in the summer to take a bus and ferry back to near Durness.

Terrain

Pathless, boggy in places, streams to cross and two fences to climb. Check that there is no firing on the Range before setting out and that the bus/ferry is running from Cape Wrath.

Public Transport

There is a private minibus and ferry service which links Cape Wrath to Keoldale (4km from Durness). The service is seasonal only and depends on MOD firing times and tide times. See text description.

Start

Sandwood Bay (no road access). Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

Walk Statistics

Distance: 12.5km / 7.75 miles
Time: 3.5 - 4.5 hours
Ascent: 421m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NC219651

Maps / GPS

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Accommodation

There are no facilities at Sandwood Bay; there is a bothy at Strathchailleach slightly off route. Cape Wrath has a basic cafe but no overnight facilities, nor is access by car possible (see below). The nearest bothy is at Kearvaig.

Walk Description

Stage 1

This route crosses the Cape Wrath MoD training range which is closed for live firing at times, sometimes only giving 24 hours notice. Check before setting out by phoning the recorded message on 0800 833300 or for more details 01971 511242. There is no access to Cape Wrath on foot or by vehicle when the range is closed. If you intend to get the bus and ferry back to Keoldale, check that the ferry will be running (weather and tide dependent) but usually runs May - September - phone 01971 511246 or 0771 9678729 or see Ferry website. The bus is independent from the ferry and places are very limited in the summer so either time your arrival at Cape Wrath to get the first bus back (approx 10:30) or be prepared to wait at the Cape for an available space. In 2013 the ferry cost £4 one way, bus £6.

Stage 2

Cross the sand to the far end of the bay and paddle across the outflow from Sandwood Loch. There is a faint sandy path heading up the steep slope ahead, bearing slightly towards the sea as you climb, passing a couple of good wild camping spots if you like to catch the breeze and enjoy views over the bay. Eventually reach a small section of stone wall and once beyond this the route is pathless. If you are planning to visit or stay at Strathcailleach Bothy head ENE across some very boggy ground to reach it - there is no bridge at the bothy (as marked on the OS map). Otherwise continue near the cliffs, crossing a barbed wire fence.

Stage 3

Soon after the Strath Cailleach river is reached. This usually requires a straightforward wade, though it can be impassable in spate. Now either head directly over Cnoc a' Gheodha Ruaidh, or bypass it on the eastern side, passing the loch of the same name. Generally the slightly higher ground nearer the coast is drier underfoot but there are patches of bog that cannot be avoided. Aim to reach the Keisaig River a short way inland from the cliffs. Just before this you need to climb the barbed wire fence that marks the boundary to the Cape Wrath MoD firing range (red flags indicate if firing is taking place but you should check in advance).

Stage 4

Descend steeply to the river and cross (often possible on stones unless there in spate) and climb the slope ahead, with patches of bare ground and some good coastal views. The most straightforward route is to take the easier ground between Sithean na h-iolaireich and Cnoc a' Ghiubhais. Here you get the first view of the Cape Wrath headland, although the lighthouse itself remains out of sight.

Stage 5

Either follow the coast or head directly for the deep gully holding the Allt na Clais Leobairnich. Whilst it is possible to follow sheep tracks down and up the steep sides of the gully, the ground on the far side is also very hard going, and most walkers prefer instead to follow the south edge of the gully eastwards, crossing once the banks have flattened out, and then head directly up to the minor road leading to the lighthouse.

Stage 6

Turn left along the road for the final section. The lighthouse is a welcome sight as you round a corner and soon the end of the trail is reached at the most north-westerly point of the Scottish mainland. The lighthouse was automated in 1998 and the buildings have been empty since, but now the Ozone Cafe is located in one of the buildings where John Ure and family serve welcome hot drinks and snacks at all times of day - the bus to the ferry departs from outside.

Stage 7

After exploring the headland around the lighthouse, which was built in 1828 by Robert Stevenson, it is worth heading up the track to the high ground just beyond the old coastguard station buildings (currently derelict but the local community has plans for a visitor centre) where there are good views over the lighthouse and along the cliffs to the east. Here you can see the sandy beach and bothy at Kervaig, which would make an atmospheric last night on the trail (the bothy is maintained by volunteers from the Mountain Bothy Association; please help by carrying out any rubbish you find here, and always follow the bothy code when visiting). If you are not able to get the bus/ferry, you can either walk back to Sandwood Bay or take the longer and rougher option of the track to the ferry house and jetty and from there work your way down the coast to round the tidal estuary to reach the A838 approximately 6km south of Durness.

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