Criffel circular, from New Abbey

An approach from New Abbey enables the ascent of Criffel - the finest viewpoint in the area - to be made into a varied circular walk. The route is rather spoiled, however, by the exceptionally boggy gound on Criffel, particularly on the descent.

Terrain

Although there is a path, the descent route in particular is exceptionally boggy, making for tough going.

Public Transport

Bus to New Abbey.

Start

Car park at Sweetheart Abbey, New Abbey. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 12km / 7.5 miles
Time: 5 - 6 hours
Ascent: 607m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NX964663

Summits Climbed

Sub 2000: Criffel

Maps / GPS

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Accommodation

Walk Description

Stage 1

There is a large car park at Sweetheart Abbey, set behind the main street in the village. The great ruined Abbey dates back to 1273 and was built in memory of John Balliol by his wife - she also founded Balliol College at Oxford University. When she died she was buried in the Abbey, and had her husband's heart interred beside her, which is the source of the name. The abbey was inhabited by Cistercian monks until the Reformation; today the ruins are administered by Historic Scotland and there is an entrance charge. The car park also has public toilets, and a tearoom. The walk begins by heading back to the road and turning right through the village. New Abbey must rank amongst the prettiest settlements in the area with its whitewashed cottages overlooked by the Abbey ruins, and two grand old pubs that face each other in the centre. Once this is reached, turn left onto the lane that leads past the Abbey Arms.

Stage 2

Turn left again to follow a narrow road that climbs up beside the millpond. After a couple of sharp bends it leads through open countryside, with a small car park in the trees on the left where it ends. The tower seen on the hill to the right is the Waterloo Monument. For Criffel, continue ahead across the wooden bridge (signed for Criffel), and then turn left into the grassy pasture. Continue to the far corner of the field and head through an iron gate with a group of deciduous trees. This leads down through a gap in a wall to join a grassy track between the fields and woods.

Stage 3

Go through another gate into the next field; the route leaves this field from the corner over to the right, but to avoid crossing the deep ditches between continue ahead along the raised track and then, just before reaching the gate at the far end, turn right alongside the drystone dyke. Go through a kissing gate at the next corner and then head diagonally left through the next large field to reach the shores of Loch Kindar. Head to the right along the shores to go through a kissing gate and along a broad grassy strip overhung by trees. After a second kissing gate the path climbs up through the trees, eventually emerging on a grassy track. Turn left along this; when it meets a larger forest track at a bend fork right uphill. Once past the burn a good path is crossed by the track (a sign indicates New Abbey back the way you came)- turn right here to head uphill on this path.

Stage 4

The path continues climbing, with the tumbling Craigrockall Burn on the right. Further up another track is reached - again go straight across this. Later, ignore a footbridge and stay on the main path until the top edge of the forestry is reached. Here the superbly made path ends suddenly and the ascent becomes far less pleasant - step over the fence and follow the now extremely muddy path on the far side.

Stage 5

This bears left up the heather slope, aiming directly towards the top of Criffel. The going can be very wet indeed, but recompense is found in the ever-improving views looking back over Loch Kindar and the Nith Estuary beyond. As the ground begins to level off another boggy path joins in from the right - this is used for the descent. The massive summit cairn - known as Douglas's Cairn - is a short distance beyond, with the trig point just over to its right. Criffel is unmatched as a viewpoint for the Solway Firth and the estuaries of its rivers, as well as looking across to the English Lake District, with Skiddaw the most prominent peak.

Stage 6

Retrace your steps to the boggy fork and take the left hand path. This skirts along the east side of the broad ridge leading out to the cairn on the summit of Knockendoch, which has superb views over the mouth of the River Nith. From here the path descends to the north, becoming increasingly boggy.

Stage 7

Eventually the path reaches a fence and drystone wall; it passes through the fence and then heads down the left side of the wall. The going on this next section is exceptionally wet - a real trial so don't say you haven't been warned! At length the forestry is reached and the path - as wet as ever - continues down a broad fire break. Eventually the going improves and the path bears left slightly before emerging on a narrow, grassy forest track. Turn right down this, looking out for a waymarker post which indicates where to turn left onto a path once more. This pleasantly continues the descent, eventually crossing a footbridge. The path becomes a track as it passes the houses, eventually reaching the wooden bridge crossed earlier in the walk. Head across this to reach the end of the public road, and continue down the tarmac for the final stretch back to New Abbey.

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