The Fossil Tree and Burg

MacCulloch's Fossil Tree is a geological wonder at the western tip of the Ardmeanach Peninsula. The walk to it is both remote and challenging - and no place for those with a fear of heights. It is set amidst stunning coastal scenery. The final section on the shore is tidal - check the tide times before setting out and try to reach this section whilst the tide is still receding. For further information on this fascinating area, see Ben Dolphin's article 'The Lost World of Mull'.

Terrain

Good track to Burg, then narrow but clear path, becoming increasingly exposed, including descent of ladder. Rough walking on tidal rocky shore.

Public Transport

None.

Start

Small official parking area beyond Tiroran on the track to the Burg. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 18.75km / 11.75 miles
Time: 5 - 7 hours
Ascent: 465m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NM477275

Maps, App and GPS

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Walk Description

Stage 1

Take the minor road from the B8035 towards Burg. This is gated at Tiroran and then becomes a rough track; continue for a further 700m until there is a marked parking area on the right - it is not permitted to drive beyond here. Begin the walk by continuing along the track; when it forks, take the right hand branch which rises and passes well above an idyllically situated cottage. Further on, the track passes a tiny shack at Dun Scobuill, and then climbs more steeply by a burn before reaching a couple of transmitter masts and three cairns with a great outlook along the coastline ahead.

Stage 2

After another couple of kilometres passing in and out of the trees the track begins a steep descent with a series of sharp zig-zags. Further down it crosses a bridge over the Abhainn Beul-ath an Tairbh with an attractive waterfall on the right. Shortly afterwards there is another fork; the right hand branch leads up to Tavool House which is owned by an outdoor pursuits company. Fork left instead and follow the smaller track as it winds through some fine woodland to reach a gate and stile at the entrance to Burg - a 1525 acre estate which was one of the first landholdings of the National Trust for Scotland.

Stage 3

Fork left once again, passing the remains of old settlements from the days before the clearances, and beneath the present metal-clad cottage at Burg. Soon the Burg Bothy is reached, a tiny stone building which was once the home of Chrissie MacGillivary who lived here for 91 years. A compulsory call en route to the Fossil Tree, Chrissie regaled visitors with many tales over a cuppa. The track peters out here but the walk continues across grass to reach the old fort at Dun Buirg (prominent on the mound on the left). The remains of the old iron-age defense are quite clear to see, whilst the more modern cairn in the centre is a memorial to Daisy Cheape who was drowned in the loch in 1896. From this point the walk becomes much rougher, on a narrow path often above steep drops. Follow the path which slopes down gently to the shoreline beyond Dun Buirg.

Stage 4

Continue along the grassy shore; the path disappears on this stretch for a while. Look out for local wildlife - a herd of wild goats roam the area and often congregate down on this section. Eventually the path becomes clear again as it slowly gains height, soon contouring the steep grassy slopes. The slope you are cutting across becomes steeper and steeper, with some crags in places, leaving the path feeling slightly exposed. The coastal scenery becomes increasinly dramatic too, with a range of hexagonal basalt formations on the shore below- vertical, horizontal, arranged in a fan, and finally a spectacular wheel.

Stage 5

The ground below is mostly precipitous, but it is possible to descend to the shoreline down a grassy slope immediately before the rocky rib that leads down to the wheel. Otherwise continue along the path which threads through an area of fallen boulders and then runs very perilously close to the edge of the drop before descending very steeply to reach the top of a ladder (marked by a metal post). Getting onto the ladder to descend requires a great head for heights - the ladder is quite rusty and the remains of an older ladder don't help inspire confidence. If it all provdes too much you could descend with great care to the shore as mentioned above and then continue along the shore to reach the point below the ladder - at low tide only.

Stage 6

Either way, the distance along the shore to reach the Fossil Tree is short - but the terrain of wet boulders, basalt hexagons, shingle and seaweed makes for slow going. This whole stretch is tidal so you need to be sure you have enough time to return before you are cut off - head out this way only whilst the tide is still going out. However, this is a magical place, with weird basalt formations, caves, mighty cliffs and views over the sea to Staffa, the Treshnish Isles and the Dutchman's Cap. Pass two great waterfalls that plunge right down from the clifftop.

Stage 7

Just past the second waterfall, around the next bluff, is MacCulloch's Fossil Tree, with a cave immediately on its right. The tree, which is huge, is thought to be 50 million years old; it was engulfed by the lava flows from the Ben More volcano and the cooling effect of the trunk has caused the basalt columns around it to curve. The fossil is mostly an imprint, but in the bottom few feet the fossil of the tree itself survives; once this was full of the original charcoal but countless visitors have meant that little now remains. After enjoying this unique spot, return the same way.

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