Iona is perhaps the most celebrated of Scotland's smaller islands, its famous Abbey drawing thousands of visitors. This walk explores the less frequented southern end of the island, passing fine beaches en route to the bay where St Columba first landed on the island.
Tarmac to the golf course, then somewhat boggy path over the moorland and down to the bay.
Bus to Fionnphort from Bunnesan; ferry from Fionnphort to Iona.
Iona ferry jetty.
Iona is linked to Fionnphort on Mull by an excellent ferry service. Visitors arrive at the jetty with a beautiful outlook across the sand and rocky shore to the cottages on the island's main street. Whilst most head towards Iona Abbey and the north end, this route heads south. Turn left from the jetty and follow the tarmac road past the Martyr's Bay bar and the fire station.
The road passes a war memorial and then a converted church. When the tarmac road swings to the right inland follow it, ignoring the track beside the beach ahead. The road now leads across to the west side of the island, ending at a gate giving access to the West End Common Grazings - also used as a golf course. Follow the track straight ahead across this, giving way to any golfers and keeping a sharp eye out for the chance of being hit by a ball. Before reaching the fine beaches and the sea take a fainter grassy track on the left; this leads towards the south end of the golf course. The track gives a good view over a bay; have a good look at the cliffs in the distance beyond the beach. Unless the sea is very calm you may see jets of water shooting spectacularly high into the air - as on the photo - this is caused by the waves heading into the 'Spouting Cave' (not easily accessible).
As the track swings left towards a bungalow continue south to the far end of the golf course, crossing a bank of sand beside a fence. The lush green ground is an example of machair - fertile grassland formed from beaches, where the shells and sand have improved the soil. From here a clear track continues uphill, giving great views back across the beaches and the machair. At the top the track reaches Loch Staoineig; leave it here and follow the often boggy path which passes to the left of the loch.
The path continues across the moor before descending steeply to a bay on the southern shores of Iona. The beautiful shingle beach here is divided in two by a huge rock outcrop, the section to the right piled with mounds of stones. This bay is said to be where St Columba first landed on Iona following his journey from Ireland. He previously landing place at Dunaverty in Kintyre, but as he had been banished to live beyond sight of Ireland (visible from Dunaverty) he sailed again until reaching this spot. One of the stone piles is said to be on the very site where he left his boat.
This is a haunting and beautiful spot, perfect for a relaxing stop. The best route back to civilisation is to return the way you came.
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