Clisham (An Cliseam) horseshoe

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The long approach to Clisham (An Cliseam in Gaelic and on OS maps) over the dramatic and rugged ridges of Mulla-Fo-Thuath and Mulla-Fo-Dheas is a Hebridean classic, with views to match. The route makes a full days' hillwalking but is much more demanding than the standard direct route up Clisham from the A859.

Terrain

Rough and rocky ridges, with very boggy approach and return. Some bouldery sections and one exposed descent requiring great care.

Public Transport

Bus between Tarbert and Stornoway.

Start

500m east of the bridge over the Abhainn Scaladail on the A859. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

There is limited parking at the bridge over the Abhainn Scaladail; the route finishes at the start of the Harris Walkway 500m along the road towards Tarbert - there is plenty of parking on the northern verge of the road here. Start by following the very boggy path that heads along the north side of the Abhainn Scaladail. There are views up to the crags of Creag Mo and Sgùrr Scaladail, but underfoot conditions make this part of the walk tedious. The path eventually peters out, but continue upstream and pass north of Loch Mhisteam, aiming for the foot of the Mullach an Langa ridge.

Stage 2

The ascent soon steepens over rough grasses but thankfully the ground becomes a little drier underfoot. Loch Langabhat comes into view to the north to reward the effort, which is sustained; the gradient relents slightly higher up before a final stiff pull up through a boulder field. From the small cairn on the summit the whole horseshoe walk can be seen stretching ahead.

Stage 3

Continue easily along the ridge at first towards Mulla-Fo-Thuath. The section over the broken rocks between two crags is much easier going than it looks, with no difficulties. The summit takes the form of a fine, slender grassy ridge, with the next section of ridge to Mulla-Fo-Dheas looking magnificent, with superb views towards the beaches of South Harris to boot.

Stage 4

A path leads down to the bealach and continues along the ridge; although the going is rocky in places there are no especial difficulties, and the cairned summit of Mulla-Fo-Dheas is soon reached. The descent from here is the trickiest section of the walk; the descent along the ridge involves some hard scrambling. The alternative is a bypass path that leaves the summit from immediately west of the cairn and drops down and then traverses across the northern side of the ridge - the path is exposed and slippery so great care is needed taking this route. The path regains the ridge at the bealach before An t-Isean, below the difficulties.

Stage 5

A good path now heads up An t-Isean, bypassing some crags on the left side. There is then a long, grassy descent to reach the foot of Clisham (An Cliseam).

Stage 6

The pull up onto Clisham is steep, over grass at first; it is possible to avoid bouldery ground until the summit is almost reached. Above the boulders a small cairn marks the northern end of the summit ridge, with sensational views back over the walk already done. Continue along the top to reach the summit, where a trig point is completely enclosed by an huge shelter cairn.

Stage 7

The ground falls away precipitously on the Tomnabhal side, so do not attempt to descend in this direction, instead following the clear path down the ridge worn by those climbing Clisham direct from the A859. The upper part of the path is dry and winds between the rocks, but the going becomes wetter and more slippery further down. Continue down the ridge until easy ground is reached, and then traverse left around the headwaters of the Allt Tomnabhal. You can either head slightly uphill to the bealach and traverse over Tomnabhal, or instead contour round its southern slopes just beneath the prominent slabs.

Stage 8

Either way, the rather featureless and rugged terrain east of Tomnabhal should soon be reached. This section can be difficult to navigate; the target is to reach the three lochans on the west side of Cleit Ard, which involves traversing sloping ground. On the final descent to the lochans, the ground is less steep to the left. Pass Lochan a'Chleit Ard and pick up the green track of the Harris Walkway just beyond. Turn left along this; although very clear and broad, the walkway is very wet underfoot in places. Follow the walkway all the way back down to the A859 and the start of the walk; there are grand views over the loch on the final stretch.

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