Hebridean Way Stage 1: Vatersay and Barra

Summary

The first stage of the Hebridean Way is one of the more challenging. After leaving Vatersay along the road, it climbs to over 270m on a rough crossing of the shoulder of Beinn Tanghabhal - the highest point on the entire route. It then descends and passes idyllic Halaman Bay at Tangasdal before a second rugged moorland crossing leads to Loch an Duin. A final rough stretch gives stunning views of Tràigh Mhòr - a wide sandy beach which serves as Barra's airport runway. A final quiet coastal road section leads to Aird Mhòr, from where the ferry departs to Eriskay.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Varied. Some road walking, boggy moorland paths, pathless in places; waymarked throughout.

Getting there

Start

Vatersay Community Hall.

Public Transport

Bus to Vatersay Hall from Castlebay; end point also served by bus.

Start Grid Ref

NF692036

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Services

There are 24hr toilets, coin operated showers and seasonal cafe at Vatersay Hall at the start. The route passes the Barra Beach Hotel (seasonal) at Tangasdal; and a couple of campsites on the coast near Borve. There are no other facilities actually en route except for an excellent seasonal coffee kiosk at the ferry jetty at the end. Castlebay on Barra has 2 hotels, hostel, B&Bs, cafe and shop.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 24km / 15 miles
Time: 7 - 8 hours
Ascent: 719m (Profile)

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Explorer 452 - Barra

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

The Hebridean Way begins from Vatersay Community Hall, from where it follows the road along which you are likely to have arrived, straight back towards Barra. Vatersay is, though, a stunning island and is well worth exploring before leaving; at the very least visit the beach immediately across the road from the hall. Afterwards, begin your long walk by heading east along the road; no hardship with the fine sea views. The route passes the wreckage and memorial of a plane crash in 1944 which cost the lives of 9 of the crew. Ignore the turning on the right for Uidh after 1.5km, and a turning on the left at Caolas 2km further on, then cross the causeway that links Vatersay to Barra. That's the first of your ten islands completed... but it's going to get tougher!

Stage 2

After the causeway continue for around 400m until a Hebridean Way signpost for Tangadale indicates where to leave it and turn left, passing through a gate and up a steep grassy track. This soon leads through the important archaeological site along the Allt Easdail, discovered only in 1988. The site was inhabited back to the Neolithic period, and the Way passes through the clear remains of a roundhouse which is 2,000 years old. Continue uphill on the ATV track beyond, climbing to give superb views back over Vatersay.

Stage 3

The route is mostly well marked with posts though rough underfoot, but around the 150m shoulder it leaves the ATV track to bear right across pathless heather, traversing around the headwaters of the Allt a' Ghoirtein. There are posts but care is needed with navigation here. The route eventually joins another faint ATV track to climb over the shoulder on the west side of Beinn Tangabhal.

Stage 4

There's a sudden view of the sea, and the (now pathless once again) route descends towards it. Before the sea is reached the route comes alongside a fence, and then crosses it via a stile. The next section has yellow marker posts but no Hebridean Way logos; follow the posts over a rocky rise and then down towards the sea, followed by another rise towards a pair of cairns. From here continue east, coming close to the coastline to pass behind the inlet (Diorlinn on the map) and then along top of the crags on the left side to avoid boggy ground.

Stage 5

Pass through a farm gate and continue across the machair (rich grassland covered with wild flowers in the summer) by the coast until you reach the beautiful sands of Halaman Bay. Head down onto the sands, crossing a minor burn, then bear right to leave the beach and head up through the dunes. The Way drops into a grassy hollow, passing some old farm containers, and crosses the field beyond to emerge on the road at Tangasdal. Turn left along the road, following it as it passes the Barra Beach Hotel.

Stage 6

Keep following the coast road, passing a couple of small campsites and the road to Borve. Turn right immediately after the bridge to go through Craigston (Baile na Creige). At the end of the road continue ahead on a track and go through a gate. At the next gate go through the walkers gate and stay on the rough path heading up the valley (not the ATV track heading directly uphill). The path is boggy but easy to make out and there are occasional marker posts.

Stage 7

Soon the path bears left to head more directly uphill on a traditional raised turf path. Keep straight ahead at the crest of the slope to pass to the west of Grianan hill. The wide path is very wet in places and there are some sections of plastic mesh and wooden bridges which can be slippery. Descend slightly to a kissing gate on the left. Go through it and immediately over the stile and turn right to head uphill alongside the fence. Marker posts and a faint path help as the route crests the shoulder and descends Corra-Bheinn, bearing left (ENE) to meet a grassy track just south of Lochan na Cartach marked by a small cairn. Turn left and follow this along the west side of Loch an Dùin until the road is reached just after a gate.

Stage 8

Turn right then take the next left to follow a surfaced track through a gate and uphill. Just before the end of the track bear left onto a path and carefully follow the marker posts and cairns as the faint path winds its way N then NE and N again across the moorland. Take care to stay on the route and do not take a gully leading W to the road, instead traversing up over the moor before the spectacular sands of Tràigh Mhòr come into view.

Stage 9

The route descends keeping just left of a huge boulder and then alongside a couple of telegraph poles. When a fence can be seen ahead, turn right to head directly towards the road where a stile leads over the fence to the road beyond. Turn right at the road and then left to reach the ferry jetty at Ardmhor (Àird Mhòr). The next stage of the Hebridean Way - Eriskay to Daliburgh - begins after taking the ferry across the sound.

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