Hebridean Way Stage 12: Balallan to Stornoway

Summary

The final stage of the Hebridean Way is the longest - though the larger part of the distance is on tarmac roads. This section includes one of the best sections of raised peat paths across desolate moorland. It is followed by a long walk along a peat road, before reaching Stornoway and journey's end.

Grade

Bog Factor

Rating

Terrain

Minor roads for much of the distance, but also 9km of moorland via raised peat paths, very boggy in places.

Getting there

Start

Balallan village hall.

Public Transport

Buses serve Balallan from Stornoway, the main ferry port on Lewis.

Start Grid Ref

NB286206

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Services

B&B just off route at the west end of Achamore. Stornoway has hotels, B&Bs, hostel and a campsite with bunkhouse within walking distance. Note that many cafes and shops (including supermarkets) are shut on Sundays. The Ullapool ferry usually has free showers aboard.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 29.5km / 18.25 miles
Time: 7 - 8 hours
Ascent: 474m (Profile)

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

Starting from the community centre in Balallan the Way heads east along the main road - but not as far as Ordnance Survey maps suggest. The Way actually turns left onto a signed track after under 2.5km. Follow the track past a lochan, ahead through a gate, until 750m from the road it turns left - leave the track here, instead turning right. The path soon becomes a little lost in the bog but you should be able to pick up the start of a raised peat path, even if parts are sunk. The path heads SE and then climbs up over a low hill, becoming clearer. It then heads downhill towards the Abhainn Lacasaidh, meeting it at the road bridge.

Stage 2

Back on the road, turn left to cross the bridge and continue along the road for 1.5km, ignoring the Laxay path signed left, but turning left when there's a Hebridean Way sign onto a track. The track soon forks - take the left branch, passing Loch Ulapuil to reach a three-way junction close by the plantation. Take the signed middle route, then fork right onto a footpath (again signed). Bear right through a kissing gate to head onto a raised peat path. There are no more markers until Achamore but the raised path is mostly clear to follow if you take care. It zig-zags up Beinn Ceadraiseall and then strikes across the moorland, aiming between Loch Eastapair and Loch na Speirig.

Stage 3

Follow the path past Loch Dubh Sodhail and Loch na h-Airigh Uir. It climbs over the shoulder of Steisal, descends to the west of Loch Nisreabhal and climbs almost over the top of Oidreabhal. On the final long and steady descent there are some very boggy sections. The Allt na Torcan is crossed at a footbridge; continue until the fences at Achamore which are briefly followed to the left. Round a fence corner to turn right and join the old and then the modern road, and turn left along it.

Stage 4

The road is followed for under 1km until a right turn onto the back road to Stornoway - one of the peat roads that are followed for the next 9 km. The narrow strip of tarmac leads between many lochans, and there are many old shielings. This road was and is used to reach peat cuttings, traditionally used for heating in homes.

Stage 5

In the distance are wind turbines - a reminder that global heating is changing the way we use fuel for heat. When a junction is reached turn right onto the Rathad a' Phentland. This leads to the outskirts of Stornoway.

Stage 6

Continue until a t-junction with the main road. Turn right here briefly, then the next left onto a tarmac lane. This leads past horticultural buidlings and part of the University of the Highlands and Islands. When a crossroads junction is reached go left to immediately reach Lews Castle. This impressive former stately home has been restored and now houses a cafe and function rooms as well as accommodation; the modern building attached is a museum. Pass the left side of the castle, then take a left to head down to the Woodlands Centre cafe which is the official end of the Hebridean Way. There is a metal sculpture sign for the end of the Way here. Some walkers choose to continue on foot to the Butt of Lewis by following the road north from Stornoway to North Tolsta to pick up the heritage trail to Lionel which has some great coastal scenery and then taking the minor road to the Butt of Lewis.

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