Tolsta Head and Tràigh Mhòr

Summary

Tolsta Head - Rubha Tholastaidh in Gaelic - is a cliff-girt headland projecting from the east coast of Lewis. This walk gives some fine coastal cliff scenery as well as bird and sea-mammal watching opportunities. A short but very steep descent then leads down to Tràigh Mhor, one of Lewis' finest beaches.

Grade (key)

Bog Factor (key)

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

No path, very boggy and unprotected clifftops. Extremely steep grass descent, then sandy beach and minor road.

Public Transport

North Tolsta is well served by bus from Stornoway.

Start

Very small parking area at NB544467, North Tolsta. Open in Google Maps.

Hillwalking in Winter

Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. All route descriptions and difficulties given here are for summer conditions. See our Winter Skills page for basic information on the essential skills, techniques and knowledge needed for winter hillwalking.

Walk Statistics

Distance: 10.25km / 6.25 miles
Time (summer conditions): 3 - 3.5 hours
Ascent: 311m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: NB544467

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Accommodation

Walk Description

User reports (1)

Stage 1

There is a small parking area for this walk at the end of the track past Cnoc a'Runaire at NB544467; to reach it take the branch road signed for the walk from Tolstadh bho Thuath; towards the south end turn left past some new houses (another sign) and along to the end of the road by a solitary bungalow. Despite the wooden sign for the walk here, it isn't obvious where to start - head into the field to the left of the bungalow / croft, keeping north for just over 100m until a very boggy path is met. Turn right along this; as the muddy route passes the last fence of the croft fork right over a duckboard to head towards the coast - the path soon peters out, but aim for the marker posts that indicate the route, soon joining the clifftop just beyond the enclosed croft land; there are views back along the coast to the beach of Tràigh Ghioradail, backed by cliffs.

Stage 2

Continue following the marker posts which indicate a route by the dramatic clifftops, with occasional views down to stacks and natural arches. The going is grassy but regularly interspersed with sodden channels of moss and bog - it would be quite an achievement to keep your feet dry. Soon a wooden signpost is reached - the left arrow points to a short-cut to Heisgeir, but our route continues out towards Rubha Tholastaidh - Tolsta Head.

Stage 3

Continue round the far end of the headland; if the day is clear there are views over to the mainland with the distinctive sugar-loaf of Suilven prominent. Look out too for minke whales or perhaps a basking shark in the water. As the route returns along the north side of the peninsula an even more impressive scene is revealed ahead - the jagged sea stacks of Heisgeir backed by the sweeping sands of Tràigh Mhor. From post 14 it is possible to either descend into a dip to cross a burn or alternatively attempt to maintain height by contouring round to the left. Either way, the two-armed signpost above the Heisgeir stacks will be reached - the counterpart to that passed earlier indicating the shortcut across the peninsula. To continue our walk ignore the sign and continue along the ever-boggy clifftops.

Stage 4

The beach of Tràigh Mhòr - amongst the finest on Lewis - now beckons, offering relief from the wet ground underfoot. Go through a pedestrian gate and descend along the grassy cliffs. Soon the ground falls away very steeply down to a burn. Great care is needed to safely descend here as the ground directly ahead falls in cliffs and that further inland into a ravine - it is possible to head a few paces west before descending extremely steep grass down to the burn. From here head out onto the beach, turn left along the sands, crossing the burn.

Stage 5

Continue right to the far end of the beach and then head left to the car park and toilets - there is also a picnic area on the dunes. From here head up the tarmac road to a junction, then turn left to begin the walk back along the road to Tolsta.

Stage 6

To return to the car continue along the road into North Tolsta, passing the post office. Turn left alongside a parking area opposite a church (sign for Tolsta Head route), then left again after a bus shelter to return past the new houses and out to the road end and the start of the walk.

Route Profile

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