The Complete Fair Isle explorer

Summary

Fair Isle is a difficult place to get to - but well rewards those who make the effort. This magnificent walk takes in most of the island's superb coastal scenery. It begins from the airstrip with the ascent of Ward Hill before following the dramatic and wild western coastline down to Malcolm's Head. It then traverses the southern coast before heading up the east side, passing the remarkable Sheep Rock before reaching the bird observatory (currently closed as destroyed by fire in 2019 - new building sheduled to reopen autumn 2023) and North Haven - where the ferry boat calls - before returning to the airstrip.

Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Largely grassy clifftop walking, some sections rough and care needed near the cliffs. There are stiles or gates to help pass all fences.

Hillwalking in Winter

Please note that hillwalking when there is snow lying requires an ice-axe, crampons and the knowledge, experience and skill to use them correctly. All route descriptions and difficulties given here are for summer conditions. See our Winter Skills page for basic information on the essential skills, techniques and knowledge needed for winter hillwalking.

Getting there

Start

Fair Isle airstrip.

Public Transport

Fair Isle is served by both air and ferry links from mainland Shetland. Only the air service allows a day visit if not planning to stay on the island overnight, with varying amounts of time between flights on different days. Advance booking is essential as flights are busy in the summer season.

Start Grid Ref

HZ210720

Open in Google Maps

Walk Statistics

Distance: 15.75km / 9.75 miles
Time (summer conditions): 5.5 - 7 hours
Ascent: 607m (Profile)

Summits Climbed

Sub 2000: Ward Hill (Fair Isle)

Mapping and GPS

ROUTE MAP
View detailed map of walk

OS Paper map
Explorer 466 - Shetland - Mainland South

Get our App FREE
Full GPS mapping &
descriptions when offline

Export GPX

Export KMZ

Open on Big Map showing all our routes

Want to sponsor this route?

Walk Description

User reports (0)

Stage 1

The walk begins from the Fair Isle airstrip, where there is a small waiting room. Wait for any planes to depart, check there is nothing incoming and then begin by heading across the runway to a track on the far side, seen heading uphill towards the telecommunications masts. The ascent is straightforward and can be accomplished quickly, but take a good look back for a view over most of the island, stretching away to the lighthouse and Malcolm's Point in the south. The track ends at a series of old concrete huts near the base of the large telecoms mast. From here take a fainter path that heads steeply uphill for the final stretch towards the true summit.

Stage 2

It's fortunate that the summit of Ward Hill itself is well away from the masts - but sadly the summit is strewn with the scattered remains of an old RAF radar base. The highest point on Fair Isle is more fittingly marked by a trig point, surrounded by a cairn made out of some of the concrete remains. The views, though, are spectacular, with seemingly endless sea stretching out in all directions. Sumburgh Head at the southern tip of Shetland's mainland is visible in clear weather, as is the lighthouse on North Ronaldsay which is the most northerly of the Orkney islands.

Stage 3

Now begin the traverse of the wild west coastline by aiming south over pathless ground to reach the clifftops. Keep safely back from the edge and pass around a deep geo, giving views of some of the gannet colonies far, far below. Cut across the next headland before descending to pass round another geo. There is a short climb up to Burrashield before the route leads past two more geos with spectacular coastal scenery, including arches and stacks. At the second of these a substantial drystone wall is reached; pass through this and climb slightly over the next headland - Hoini.

Stage 4

Descend from this to a stile, and keep slightly left to cross a geo that cuts far inland. On the far side of this bear right to rejoin the coastline, crossing another stile. The next target is to climb the first of the three headlands seen ahead. Keep left to go over the stile and then aim directly up the steep slope to reach the top from where a tall sea stack can be seen. There is also a good view of the sheer sided Fogli Stack just beyond Malcolm's Head.

Stage 5

Descend on the far side of the small headland going through two more stiles, a gate and passing a fin-shaped sea stack, and two further stiles before starting to climb Malcolm's Head. At the top the remains of an old coastguard lookout mark the top and there are great views north along the coast and also south to the lighthouse. Descend on the far side, keeping as close to the cliffs as is safe - ensure you detour out Mathers Head to view the two islands at Black Holm where puffins breed and can often be seen sitting by their burrows during the late spring and summer.

Stage 6

Cross a stile to go round the back of a deep inlet and another stile on the far side and keep heading along the coast sticking near the shore and descending to a stile over a wall to soon reach the road. The lighthouse is a short detour to the right, there is a memorial those who lost their lives when it was targeted in WWII. Turn left along the road, bearing left after The Puffin (where National Trust volunteers stay) to cross the cattegrid (note the arches and boat noosts on the right) pass the cemetery and turn right along the road. Before the white house take the stile on the right and continue along the coast soon crossing a stile to reach more open ground.

Stage 7

Climb slightly to the headland overlooking the chunk of rock known as The Burrain and keep following the cliff edge, crossing stiles where necessary to reach Busta headland - don't climb up to the electricity turbine (one of two supplying the community) but keep to the right of it to follow the coast and the first views of Sheep Rock. The route heads inland to keep to the back of Swartz Geo, look ahead to see the blue waymarked stiles and continue along a stunning section of coast before eventually climbing up to the headland overlooking Sheep Rock. The rock was used for summer sheep grazing until 1977 with the sheep hauled up by rope from boats with a precarious path up for the crofters.

Stage 8

Don't be tempted to get too near to Sheep Rock - the cliff edge descends steeply before a very high vertical drop. Instead continue north along the cliff heading inland almost to the road to cross the top of a deep ravine where the remains of a grain mill and a bird trap can be seen. A number of fine arches - and the chance to see puffins - make it worthwhile sticking to the coast until the road is very close.

Stage 9

Head to the right along the road from here turning right at the fork to pass the Bird Observatory and reach the sandy beach and jetty at North Haven. This is where Fair Isle's ferry The Good Shepherd is berthed. Once you have explored this area return to the airstrip by heading back up the road (short cut to pass next to the first bird trap) and turning right after the information board at the bird trap seen on the way out.

Route Profile

Where to stay

Report error

Let us know if you've found an error in our route, or if it needs updating.

Write walk report

Share your story and photos from this route.
£150 of Highlander Outdoor gear to win every month.

Can you help support walkhighlands?

This website and app are run by 'Walkhighlands for All' - a not-for-profit set up to serve walkers' needs.
We rely on the generosity of our users - can you help?