This exploration around the coastal cliffs of the Esha Ness peninsula is a real Shetland classic - a superb walk with some magnificent cliff scenery as well as the chance to see seabirds, seals and otters.
Mostly grassy walking above exposed coastal clifftops, rough in places but stiles over all fences. One part along quiet minor roads.
None to start.
Car park at Esha Ness lighthouse.
The walk starts from the car park at the end of the road to Esha Ness lighthouse - one of Shetland's more remote and yet popular places. Begin by walking north to reach the open edge of the fine sea cliffs, then follow them to the right, passing right around the impressively deep inlet of Calder's Geo. Many seabirds are present here, including puffins. On the far side of the geo return to the clifftops above the sea and continue northwards along a coastline rich with stacks, arches, caves and geos.
Keep left of the freshwater Lochs of Drigeo, then cross a stile over a drystone wall. There are views to a big sea cave at the base of Moo Stack, and an arch further to the right.
There are stiles to cross more fences as the coastal cliffs become lower and you reach the northern side of the peninsula. Aim for a gap in a drystone wall and then continue on a grassy path along the northern coastline. Cross the shingle that divides Croo Loch from the sea and continue on a clear path that runs above the cliffs rising around the northern side of the Hill of Ure - there are views to distant Muckle Ossa, which itself has a fine arch. Head around the Geo of Ure, passing through a pedestrian gate and then heading down to a couple of stiles. On the cliffs of the east side of the geo is another arch.
Continue round the next headland to the next bay - the Dale of Ure - with good views of the coastline and of Ronas Hill. As you bend round south towards the back of the bay do not descend into it, instead aiming SW alongside a fence until a stile and then a gate give access to a tarmac road end by a house at Ure. Head along the road to the left, turning right when it reaches a junction at another house.
The very quiet minor road now climbs gently across the moorland of the interior of the peninsula. After 1.7km it reaches the 'main' Esha Ness road - turn left here, and then take the next right, signed for Tangwick. Although away from the coast there are still good views on this section, with the distinctive stacks of the Drongs visible and the Ness of Hillswick beyond.
The road leads down to the impressive seventeenth century house at Tangwick Haa, which was once the residence of the local laird. It is now an excellent museum; refreshments are available when it is open. Follow the track to the right past the museum to join the southern coast of the peninsula at the bay known as the Houb.
Continue along the coast past the stone ruin, passing through a pedestrian gate. The cliffs here are lower than the first part of the walk but there are usually seals to be seen basking on the rocks, and views out to the tiny island of Dore Holm with its remarkably large arch - seen to better effect as the walk continues. The coastal route leads round several rocky bays, some with small arches of their own. Pass another stone ruin and continue round the coast - there are pedestrian gates and stiles as needed. As the route nears Stenness it climbs between two fences; the route is marked over more stiles as it leads up to a memorial cross high above the sea.
From the cross descend to another stile and continue round the Fiorda Taing. This whole section is perfect otter habitat - keep a sharp watch and you might catch a glimpse of one of these enchanting creatures. After rounding the low lying peninsula, head through a pedestrian gate to cross the pebble beach below Stenness. Keep left of the ruined building, and from the bay aim left to reach a stile on grassy slopes above the coastline.
The coastal walk continues on closely-cropped grass. Pass a ruin, cross a stile over a fence and a ladder stile over a drystone wall. Continue round above the Bruddans and the Cannon. The ground begins to rise and the cliffs to reassert themselves; cross a stile and follow the coast back towards the lighthouse at Esha Ness. Pass this on the left side to return to the car park at the start.
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