Fitful Head is a high moorland towards the southern end of Mainland, fringed by dramatic coastal cliffs on the west side. It is the breeding ground for huge numbers of Bonxies and offers superb views on a good day.
Tarmac road or track, then rugged, pathless moorland walking above high coastal cliffs.
Quendale is infrequently served by a link bus.
Quendale - there is space to park north of the Mill.
The walk starts from Quendale. Quendale Mill is a beautifully restored watermill also housing an information centre and cafe; you can either ask for permission to park here, or find a space a short distance north along the road. Begin the walk by heading north along the road to Hillwell. A rough tarmac road - marked Private Road with a NATS sign - turns off left next to a house.
Head up this road which climbs, dips slightly, and then climbs more steeply to emerge suddenly high above the sea at the col betweem Windy Stacks and Rushy Cups.
The road continues all the way to the summit and so gives an easier option, but if tired of tarmac you can leave the road shortly after it swings left, heading up between the clifftops and an old quarry.
Continue over boggy grassland above the cliffs, grazed by sheep. Watch out for Great Skuas which nest here in large numbers in the summer months and which dive bomb unsuspecting walkers - at such times it is a good idea to have an upright stick projecting above your rucksack for some protection.
Eventually the main west-facing cliffs are reached. Continue south along the line of an old turf dyke.
After a brief interlude there is a very steep final climb up to reach the golf-ball like NATS station on the summit of Fitful Head.
Pass to the right of this, keeping along the line of a wire fence across wild and rough moorland, with the dramatic cliffs on your right. If you descend to Siggar Ness you'll have to climb back, so it's probably best to cut across the moorland to rejoin the cliffs above the Noup
From here there are great views towards the sandy Bay of Quendale. Keep on the inland side of the fence; when a fence is reached running across the slope it is easiest to step over where the fences join. Continue steeply down with care to reach the burn that divides Fitful Head from the Garths Ness peninsula. It is possible to continue round the coastline of the latter peninsula; alternatively follow the fenceline (keeping it on your right) to cut across the neck of land north of Garths Ness.
Pass through a gate to meet the track at Garthsbanks, then turn left along the track and follow it back towards Quendale Mill. It is possible to make a brief detour through a gate (signed) to visit the fine beach before you continue back to the start.
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