Hermaness National Nature Reserve, Unst

Hermaness is one of Shetland's truly special places - a dramatic clifftop National Nature Reserve that is also a spectacular seabird city - home to more than 100,000 birds in the breeding season, including countless puffins, a huge gannetry and the world's third largest colony of bonxies - great skuas. The awesome cliffs look out to the serrated rocks of Muckle Flugga and Out Stack - the most northerly place in Britain.

Terrain

Constructed path and easy uphill boardwalk to reach the clifftop. Grassy clifftop terrain follows above unprotected cliff edges. Some steep ground and boggy terrain on the northern section of the clifftop walk.

Public Transport

None to start; nearest bus is at Haroldswick.

Start

Hermaness NNR car park. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 10.5km / 6.5 miles
Time: 3.5 - 4 hours
Ascent: 285m (Profile)
Start Grid Ref: HP612149

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Walk Description

Stage 1

Park at the Hermaness car park which is signed at the end of a narrowing road from Haroldswick; the parking area is the left fork at the end. Before beginning the walk it is worth taking a look at the visitor centre which is housed in the lighthouse shore station which is at the end of the right fork in the road. The reserve is managed by Scottish Natural Heritage and during the breeding season there are sometimes access restrictions in the loop walk that returns over Hermaness Hill, so the route described here heads both out and back to the clifftops along the main route which is always open.

Stage 2

Begin the walk through the gate at the end of the parking area and follow the well-constructed trail as it climbs gently across the moor, giving good views across to the old RAF station on Saxa Vord across the Burra Firth. After around 600m the path bends left and becomes a constructed boardwalk, leading gently uphill over moorland on the north side of the Burn of Winnaswarta Dale. The boardwalk makes for easy walking, but watch out for the great skuas during the summer.

Stage 3

These impressive birds - commonly known by their Shetland dialect name of Bonxies - divebomb walkers fiercely when defending their nests on the moor. This is one of the world's largest colonies - if under attack, it's a good idea to place a walking stick in your rucksack, or hold an arm over your head, to help fend them off. After a climb of a little over 2km from the start the clifftops are suddenly reached - a magic moment as the 140m drop down to the ocean far below is suddenly revealed - take care near the edge!

Stage 4

From here the walk explores along the clifftops in both directions. Taking the southerly route first, turn left along the cliff tops, keeping back from the edge and climbing up towards Heap. As you reach the highest point the smell of guano will probably hit you before the view - you are now directly above one of Shetland's largest gannet colonies. 30,000 pairs of these huge and majestic birds nest on the reserve, with the largest numbers on Heap. There are glimpses down to the colony but from here it is mostly unseen.

Stage 5

For a better view, continue around the clifftops, descending slightly and then following the coast round as it curves to Saito. From here the view back to the cliffs of the Heap and its gannets is truly awe-inspiring. It is possible to extend the walk from here by continuing along the cliffs beyond Saito and then descending the moors north of the Milldale Burn - alternatively this could be used as a more challenging route up to Hermaness. For our route, retrace your steps back to where you reached the cliffs at the top of the boardwalk, and this time continue along the cliffs in the opposite direction.

Stage 6

This is one of the best areas to see Hermaness' huge colony of 25,000 pairs of puffins - 5% of the total UK population. These entertaining birds nest in burrows seen along the tops of the cliffs in the summer, after spending the rest of the year out at sea. In the early summer they are out fishing during the day and the best time to see them is early morning or in the evening; later in the summer when they are feeding their young they fly to and from the burrows more regularly. For the best view stop and sit down and wait for one to come near. If a puffin is seen waiting you are probably blocking the route to its burrow.

Stage 7

From Toolie the route descends steeply down grassy slopes to the right of the cliff edge - take great care. Beyond this point the going above the cliffs can be boggy in places. Soon it passes above more gannet colonies - smaller than the Heap, but set on impressive rocks including a sea arch.

Stage 8

Beyond the arch there are unrestricted views out to the rocks of Muckle Flugga - with its lighthouse - and Out Stack, the most northerly part of the UK. Soon the 'path' - such as it is - cuts right and begins to climb towards Hermaness Hill - but the route over the hill and back to the start of the boardwalk is often closed during the summer breeding season to protect the birds.

Stage 9

At such times it is no hardship to retrace your steps along the clifftops once more, with great views of the highest part of the cliffs before you climb back up. Once back at the top the constructed boardwalk makes for a fast and straightforward descent of the moors back to the start - but watch out for those bonxies!

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