Malcolm's Head and Sheep Rock, Fair Isle

Summary

This fantastic walk takes in some of the best coastal scenery and features on Fair Isle with good opportunities to spot puffins in the late spring and summer, it also visits the beach and jetty at North Haven and the Bird Observatory (currently closed with new building scheduled for reopening autumn 2023). It considerably shortens the Complete Fair Isle route by omitting the ascent of Ward Hill.

Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Minor road, grazing fields with stiles (dogs under tight control), pathless coastal sections with short boggy areas.

Getting there

Start

Fair Isle airstrip.

Public Transport

Fair Isle is served by both air and ferry links from mainland Shetland. Only the air service allows a day visit if not planning to stay on the island overnight, with varying amounts of time between flights on different days. Advance booking is essential as flights are busy in the summer season.

Start Grid Ref

HZ210720

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 12.75km / 8 miles
Time: 4 - 5.5 hours
Ascent: 392m (Profile)

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Explorer 466 - Shetland - Mainland South

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

The route starts from the airstrip but can easily also be walked from the ferry jetty at North Haven or the Bird Observatory by following the road south to join the route. From the airstrip follow the road downhill noting the bird trap used by the observatory on the left side. At the junction turn right and after passing the house at Vaasetter the high mound of Malcolm's Head can be seen in the distance. Continue past the doctor's surgery and keep right where the road forks (signed for shop). After rounding the corner just before the shop, toilet and post box take the stile on the right to head straight across the field.

Stage 2

Climb another stile on the far side to get to the cliffs. There is a great view a few steps to the right of Hundi Stack and the jagged cliffs. This route is however heading south and the first target is to climb the first of the three headlands. Keep left to go over a stile and then aim directly up the steep slope to reach the top from where a tall sea stack can be seen. There is also a good view of the sheer sided Fogli Stack just beyond Malcolm's Head. Descend on the far side of the small headland going through two more stiles, a gate and passing a fin-shaped sea stack, and two further stiles before starting to climb Malcolm's Head.

Stage 3

At the top the remains of an old coastguard lookout mark the top and there are great views north along the coast and also south to the lighthouse. Descend on the far side, keeping as close to the cliffs as is safe - ensure you detour out to Mathers Head to view the two islands at Black Holm where puffins breed and can often be seen sitting by their burrows during the late spring and summer.

Stage 4

Cross a stile to go round the back of a deep inlet and another stile on the far side and keep heading along the coast sticking near the shore and descending to a stile over a wall to soon reach the road. The lighthouse is a short detour to the right, there is a memorial those who lost their lives when it was targeted in WWII.

Stage 5

Turn left along the road, bearing left after The Puffin (where National Trust volunteers stay) to cross the cattegrid (note the arches and boat noosts on the right) pass the cemetery and turn right along the road. Before the white house take the stile on the right and continue along the coast soon crossing a stile to reach more open ground.

Stage 6

Climb slightly to the headland overlooking the chunk of rock known as The Burrain and keep following the cliff edge, crossing stiles where necessary to reach Busta headland - don't climb up to the electricity turbine (one of two supplying the community) but keep to the right of it to follow the coast and the first views of Sheep Rock.

Stage 7

The route heads inland to keep to the back of Swartz Geo, look ahead to see the blue waymarked stiles and continue along a stunning section of coast before eventually climbing up to the headland overlooking Sheep Rock. The rock was used for summer sheep grazing until 1977 with the sheep hauled up by rope from boats with a precarious path up for the crofters.

Stage 8

Don't be tempted to get too near to Sheep Rock - the cliff edge descends steeply before a very high vertical drop. Instead continue north along the cliff heading inland almost to the road to cross the top of a deep ravine where the remains of a grain mill and a bird trap can be seen. A number of fine arches - and the chance to see puffins - make it worthwhile sticking to the coast until the road is very close.

Stage 9

Head to the right along the road from here turning right at the fork to pass the Bird Observatory and reach the sandy beach and jetty at North Haven. This is where Fair Isle's ferry The Good Shepherd is berthed. Once you have explored this area return to the airstrip by heading back up the road (short cut to pass next to the first bird trap) and turning right after the information board at the bird trap seen on the way out.

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