Sgùrr a Mhadaidh and Sgùrr a Ghreadaidh

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Twin-topped Sgùrr a Ghreadaidh is the highest peak on the northern half of the Cuillin Ridge; it can be climbed either with its neighbour Sgùrr a Mhadaidh or on separate excursions; both peaks involve tough scrambling but have fantastic views.

Terrain

The ascent of An Dorus is on steep scree and the routes to the peaks from there involve steep and tricky scrambling. There is an easier option on Sgùrr a Mhadaidh but there is still a fair amount of scrambling involved.

Public Transport

None to start.

Start

Parking by Glen Brittle Youth Hostel. Open start point in Google Maps for directions.

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Walk Description

Stage 1

Park at Glen Brittle Youth Hostel; there is space on the left hand verge of the road both before and after the bridge. The walk starts on the excellent constructed path up the south side of the stream. The initial section passes a whole series of waterfalls as the stream tumbles down a small gorge. At several points paths head off to the right, but instead keep on the main path beside the stream. After two kilometres the well-constructed section of path ends and the route becomes more eroded. A short distance beyond, it crosses the stream either just below or just above an impressive waterslide - it doesn't matter which.

Stage 2

Continue up the far bank of the stream on a wide eroded slope. Coire a Ghreadaidh looks spectacular from here, with a great gorge issuing out from the upper corrie. The only routes up onto the ridge from Coire a Ghreadaidh are rock-climbs; our route follows the path beside a branch stream heading to the left, leading towards the higher corrie to the left of Coire a Ghreadaidh, Coire An Dorus. After a steep climb beside the stream, continue up the left bank until reaching the floor of Coire An Dorus.

Stage 3

There's a great view of Sgùrr a Mhadaidh and Sgùrr a Ghreadaidh ahead, with a steep chute leading up to An Dorus ('The Door'), the lowest point on the ridge between the two peaks. Pass through a dry gorge to find the start of a path which zig-zags up the steep scree towards An Dorus. Do not head for the higher, even narrower col on the ridge further right, which is the Eag Dubh ('Black Cleft').

Stage 4

The gully narrows part way up, and then narrows again dramatically just a short distance from the top. From here to the top of An Dorus the floor of the gully is made of slabby rocks and involves some scrambling. From the top, the route to Sgùrr a Mhadaidh is very steep and awkward initially, but the scrambling soon becomes easier. This steep and awkward section can be avoided if needed by leaving the An Dorus gully a little lower down, just below the final narrowing. From here, a faint path slants easily upwards to the left (a full ninety degrees left from the line of the gully). The path continues in the same direction for a hundred and fifty metres, until it rounds a corner and the ridge leading from Sgùrr Thuilm up to Sgùrr a Mhadaidh comes into view across a wide bowl. From here, scramble very easily up to the right to reach a wide and easy scree slope. A cairn visible way over to the right is at the top of the hard section from An Dorus; you don't need to head right across to it, as the route from there continues up the scree on the left of the ridge until it is possible to scramble upwards to the crest of the ridge quite easily. The route onwards to the summit now keeps fairly close to the ridge crest, keeping to the left side to avoid any real difficulties.

Stage 5

The tiny cairn at the summit of Sgùrr a Mhadaidh (Peak of the Fox, 918m) is soon reached. This is the only one of the four summits of this mountain to attain Munro status - a good thing for walking Munro-baggers as continuing to the other tops involves Difficult rock-climbing. The view is superb, from Sgùrr Thuilm far below, taking in Sgùrr nan Gillean at the north end of the ridge, and the great gulf of Loch Coruisk far below to the huddle of sharp serrated peaks around Sgùrr Alasdair and the Inn Pinn. Most walkers attention will be fixed on the ridge up to Sgùrr a Ghreadaidh, which looks intimidating from here. Return back down to the An Dorus gully, either directly to its head or using the variant already described (the variant could be harder to find in descent).

Stage 6

To climb Sgùrr a Ghreadaidh, the wall on the south side of the An Dorus gap is climbed - a steep, stiff scramble - bear in mind that you will also need to be able to descend this way. A rope may be required, particularly if the rock is wet. Above this section, the scrambling is more straightforward - and much easier than it appeared from Sgùrr a Mhadaidh. The impressive gash of the Eag Dubh is passed fairly easily by descending slightly to the left. The next obstacle is a great boss of rock known as the Wart, but this can be avoided to the right on slabby rocks. Beyond, the summit is soon reached. Sgùrr a Ghreadaidh (973m) is the highest peak on the northern half of the Cuillin Ridge. From most directions its twin summits have a gentle dome outline - an illusion that is shattered on reaching the north (Munro) peak. The section of ridge which continues to the slightly lower south peak is perhaps the narrowest arête in the whole of the British Isles, and sensationally exposed. The return route is back down the ridge to An Dorus, and then down to the path up the corries below.The grade and times given assume that this option is taken.

Stage 7

Extremely keen and experienced scramblers (only) can continue traversing the ridge. Taking this route is very committing, as there are no practical descent routes until Sgùrr na Banachdich is reached, a whole kilometre of sustained scrambling further on. There is nothing more difficult than the climb out of An Dorus, but there is a lot of exposure. This route starts by making the airy traverse to Sgùrr a Ghreadaidh's south summit - the easiest way is to keep slightly to the right of the true ridge line, but whatever route is taken has great exposure. Beyond, the scrambling continues down to a dip in the ridge, before ascending again towards a group of pinnacles known as the Three Teeth - these can be easily avoided to the left. The next peak, Sgùrr Thormaid (Norman's Peak, named after Norman Collie, one of the great pioneers of climbing in the Cuillin) looks intimidating. Its ascent is directly up the edge of the slab. Scramble down from the top into Beallach Thormaid, passing right of some small pinnacles, before the final ascent up to Sgùrr na Banachdich. Use either of the descent routes described on the Sgùrr na Banachdich route.

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