At first it was subtle, barely enough to suggest anything was amiss – a long, flat-topped plateau in the distance, somewhere over towards Drumochter, and I was struggling to identify it. We do of course have plenty of flat-topped hills in Scotland, especially around Drumochter, but this one was properly flat, like a table. Hmm. I assumed my natural compass was just a bit off, and when I reached the summit I’d take another look and try to work it out. But when I looked back behind me just five minutes later, that flat-topped hill was now whale-backed, and had…










