This circular route explores much of the island of Scalpay (Scalpaidh in Gaelic), now joined to Harris by a bridge, and visits the impressive Eilean Glas lighthouse.
Waymarked rough path, minor roads, very boggy with peat-hagged ground in places.
Bus from Tarbert to Scalpay.
Minor road, Scalpay.
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Scalpay is a short drive east from Tarbert and since the 1990s has been joined to Harris by a bridge. Once over the bridge continue to a junction at the head of Ceann a Bhaigh and turn left here. Just beyond the cluster of three houses on the right is some limited parking at the side of the road. Start the walk by heading back along the road towards the three houses, turning left through the metal farm gate to follow the surfaced lane towards the further house. Turn right in front of this house to go through another gate onto a track which bends left to reach Loch an Duin. At the loch bear left over a stile and footbridge and follow the path around the north side.
There are infrequent marker posts and it is usually possible to spot the next one where the path on the ground is indistinct or boggy. Although the posts are numbered in reverse the route is slightly easier to follow in this direction. When a fence is reached pass around the lower end of it before turning right to head uphill to reach a gate. Now bear right across the high ground before descending to reach the far end of Loch an Duin. From here climb uphill following the posts, passing above the south side of Loch Cuilceach.
An area of boggy peat hags is climbed on route for Beinn Scorabhaig to reach the cairn just beyond marker post 26. Looking back there are good views over the mountains of Harris with Clisham dominant on a clear day. Looking ahead, the north end of Skye is often visible across the Minch where it is often possible to make out the Storr on the Trotternish Ridge. Eilean Glas lighthouse is directly ahead and the path aims for it, keeping slightly left to avoid a number of lochans.
Just before the sturdy stone wall turn right on a path that runs parallel to it, passing old peat cuttings to reach a gate in the wall. Go through the gate and go straight ahead on an old stone path to reach the lighthouse which has a superb setting on a rocky outcrop and its own jetty. The original lighthouse was one of the first in Scotland, and was built by Thomas Smith before being replaced by Robert Stephenson in 1824.
From the lighthouse head along the track to the SW briefly, before aiming off to the right at a marker post to reach another gate in the wall, to the south of the one passed through originally. Once through the wall ignore the path straight ahead, instead turning left until the yellow waymarkers are picked up once more. The path is rough going and stays near the coast picking its way over undulating ground and climbing in and out of gullies.
After descending to a flatter grassy area, the route heads inland up a wide gully which climbs to reach a fence overlooking the sea loch marked as Bagh Ceann na Muice on the map. Before the fence bear right to climb uphill to climb a stile. Continue up over the rocky ground, keeping well to the right on the high ground above the first house that comes into view.
The path soon reaches the road, turn right onto it passing a number of houses including a Harris tweed weaving shed. Ignore any side roads and continue on the quiet road to reach the main settlement on Scalpay, which is home to over 300 people and has seen a revival since the building of the bridge with a thriving shellfish industry as well as increased tourism. At the crossroads turn right to pass the playground and then the school. Once over the bridge at the head of Ceann a Bhaigh turn right to return to the start.
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