Fethaland from Isbister

Summary

Head out to the northermost point of Mainland Shetland on this classic walk. A rough coastal stretch leads to the haunting remains of an old fishing station and some dramatic cliff scenery.

Grade

Bog Factor

4.5/5

Rating

Terrain

Rough walking on moorland and grassy slopes above the coastal cliffs on the outward leg; return walk uses tracks and paths. All fences have stiles or gates.

Getting there

Start

Isbister, near North Roe.

Public Transport

North Roe has a daily feeder bus service from Brae.

Start Grid Ref

HU371908

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Walk Statistics

Distance: 10km / 6.25 miles
Time: 3.5 - 4 hours
Ascent: 345m (Profile)

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Explorer 469 - Shetland - Mainland North West

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Walk Description

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Stage 1

Park with care near the end of the public road at Isbister - avoid blocking any farm gates or the turning area. Begin the walk by forking right past the metal barn, on a track that slopes uphill, passing to the right of the cemetery. The track becomes faint at one point; pass to the right of a stone house and then keep on track as it curves right, passing through a gate with a stile alongside. Cross the field to another stile over the next fence, soon reaching some ruins just to the north of the Loch of Houllsquey.

Stage 2

From here aim for another stile, leading out onto open ground above the east coast of the peninsula. The route now continues northwards through the undulating grassy pastures above the coastal cliffs - there is no one walkers' path - just a range of sheep-paths - so you can pick your own exact line. Soon the route passes above the inaccessible and rock-girt Kame of Isbister. This dramatic headland is linked only by a rock-arête but was once the site of a monastic settlement - it featured in the series 'Extreme Archaeology' on Channel 4.

Stage 3

Continuing north, aim to pass through a pedestrian gate in the next fence line. Descend to a ruined enclosure at Little Burn, then keep ahead, gaining some height and passing through another pedestrian gate. The route comes closer to the coast at one point, with a fence on the right, as it crosses the flank of Ramna Beorgs. Descend to another gate and then continue across the next depression, with some boggy going in places. Keeping just left of Eislin Geo to reach yet another gate. As you climb over the eastern slopes of Skinis Field there is a first stunning view of the Fethaland peninsula and island beyond.

Stage 4

The route continues just above the bay of Wick of Breibister, passing through gates in a couple more fences, and the rough ground gives way to increasingly green pastures as Fethaland is approached. Fethaland shows signs of habitation dating back to prehistoric times, but the majority of the ruins today are from its use as a fishing station from the 15th century until the early 20th. Most the buildings were lodges housing workers who manned up to 60 boats operating from the station. The open rowboats - known as sixareens - had six oars a piece, and incredibly were used to fish between here and the edge of the continental shelf - an area known as the Haaf - 50 miles out west. Fish were cured and dried on the beach, and the ruins of many of the 36 lodges still remain.

Stage 5

Join the track that leads out to Fethaland, crossing the narrow isthmus that links with the so-called Isle of Fethaland - the northernmost extension of the peninsula. Just to the left of the more prominent ruins is the outline of an iron-age broch.

Stage 6

It is worth continuing northwards up to the small modern lighthouse on the Isle of Fethaland and just beyond - the northernmost part of Mainland Shetland. From here there are stunning views taking in the Isle of Gruney and the Ramna Stacks beyond - an important sanctuary for seabirds.

Stage 7

Looking southwest from the clifftops the impressive coastline can be seen extending out to the tidal island of Uyea in the distance. Return to Fethaland and across the isthmus, this time remaining on the grassy track as it leads southwards.

Stage 8

The track becomes much clearer as it climbs the hill past the last lodges, giving great views back over Fethaland. It passes well east of the Loch of Breibister, but before reaching the Upper Loch of Setter there is a signed junction of tracks. The quickest way back is to continue ahead, following the track up over a hill with grazing cattle, but a more interesting return is to turn right along the track here. After 450m leave the track where it swings right, following a line of marker posts through a field and over a small footbridge. Continue to a gate and follow the markers as the path runs south close to the eastern shores of the Lower Loch of Setter.

Stage 9

Eventually another track is joined. Follow this south over a low rise, leaving it when it swings right towards Sandvoe, instead keeping ahead to some ruined buildings. Beyond these aim for a pedestrian gate in the fence to the southeast. Pass through this and across the field ESE to return to Isbister, meeting the track at another pedestrian gate. The start of the walk at the road end is just to the right.

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