Rubh an Dùnain is a peninsula stretching out from Glen Brittle beach in the shadow of the Cuillin. It makes for a superb low level excursion with dramatic scenery and fascinating historical remains. Fabulous sunsets.
Good track to peninsula but pathless and very boggy in places once on Rubh' an Dùnain. Careful navigation needed.
None to start.
Parking at Glen Brittle above the beach.
Park just before the campsite at the end of the Glen Brittle road. Follow the path to the left of the toilet block, continuing up until it meets a rough track. Turn right along this. Soon it fords a small burn.
After a couple of kilometres the Allt Coire Lagan is reached; you can detour to the right to a bridge if necessary before returning to the track. Further on is another smaller stream to cross which could be tricky after heavy rains, with an attractive waterfall. A path forks off left below Creag Mhor. Take the left fork which climbs up and along this low hill, which offers splendid views of the Cuillin mountains around Coire Lagan, as well as out to the islands of Eigg, Rum and Canna.
Ignore a path trending left and continue over the final bump before picking out an initially steep descent into the Slochd Dubh (Black Ditch) - there are traces of a path. Pick up the grassy track from the end of the gravel track below, which bears left and passes through a gap in the stone wall. On the far side this runs parallel to the wall at first, before bearing right through bracken and then into bogs.
Continue through the boggiest section until a path becomes clearer once more. This leads to ruins of a large house - the home of the Chief of Clan MacAskill until the nineteenth century. From the house avoid the boggy bracken in the hollow below by following the edge of a low escarpment just to its right, eventually reaching Loch na h-Airde half way along its near shore. From here bear left across more rough, wet ground around the loch.
The exit stream from the loch was actually dug out by the Vikings as a canal, enabling their boats to access the loch which they used as a shipyard. Cross the canal (this may not be possible at high tide, in which case you will have to detour round the loch).
Head past a stone shelter to the top of the low cliff beyond. Now make your way around the pathless extremity of Rubh' an Dùnain; it is best to keep to the higher ground, making some use of sheep tracks. The views of both the Small Isles and back to the Cuillin are superb. Keep a sharp eye out for otters - the small green mounds are their spraint mounds.
The route eventually turns back east and descends to a wall from the sea to Loch na h-Airde. Pass through the gap - and detour to the right on the far side to visit a chambered cairn dating from the Bronze Age, the best preserved example on Skye. You can still crawl through the original entrance to enter the inner chamber within the walls.
After visiting the cairn, return to the northern coast. There is an indistinct path round the grassy shelf between the sea and Carn Mòr . Look out for sea eagles as well as otters. Eventually the route returns to the Slochd Dubh. Follow the rough vehicle track back to the campsite and Glen Brittle.
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